Started with breakfast at the hotel and a soak in the tub...yes, tub for a change...but no plug as apparently you are meant to shower in Europe. I improvised by stuffing the hand towel over the hole so I could take a soak. On check out the fellow who had come down in the elevator with me tried to tell the front desk he was being ripped off for the price because I had told him I only paid $90 euros for the room for the night and he was being charged $200. I hadn't said a word to the guy and told the counter clerk as much...in fact I had received a special one night rate of $70. The guy gave up complaining and headed off, while the clerk said not to worry, people were always trying something.
Then I headed over to my hotel for the next two nights, which is also right across the street from the train station...handy to metro, buses, etc and again I had managed to find a deal with an on-line booking at about half the regular hotel rate. They even let me check in about four hours early, so I could head out to see a little of Milan.
Hopped the metro to the center and the Duomo Cathedral of Milan. Came off the metro to chaos as the piazza was filled with rabid soccer fans and a huge screen TV was playing a game. So to the cacaphony of blaring horns, shouting fans, singing, waving flags I entered the huge cathedral. Beautiful stained glass windows and huge artworks...very beautiful. Took a bit of time to get through but well worth a visit. It is also across the street from my next stop -PalazzoReale and the Impressionist Exhibition featuring Manet, Monet, Renoir plus many others and highlighting the birth and progression of the impressionist form of painting. Some really beautiful pieces; I especially liked Renoir's paintings, the light on his subjects made them look like they could walk off the canvas (or in his still life, like you could reach in and grab a piece of fruit). I spent a lot of time sitting and staring at paintings by these masters.
Back out on the square I took a tour around the painters booths set-up and admired the crafts of several artists displaying their wares. If only I had a bigger suitcase...I was really tempted to buy a piece with a floating clown, balloons, pinocchio and a suitcase on a brilliant blue background that was whimsical and wonderful. Just have to save it in my memory bank instead.
The crowd in the square was getting even wilder, with something burning, people hanging off the statue and just roaring with noise. I opted to head back to my neck of the woods for supper and try to avoid the rush in the metro when the rowdies dispersed. The underground was full of more people coming and others going to join the festivities and the train was packed and loud. Had a bit of trouble getting to the right platform and nearly died when I had to do about 200 stairs as the escalators were shut down and the lift only accessed the wrong platform. Insane...but I got to experience the craziness of the wild Italian soccer fans.
Got back to the hotel to find my knee was swelling...probably too many steps, too much walking. I guess tomorrow will be a day of rest...laundry and preparation for the trip back to London and the start of the Baltic Cruise on May 17.
Sunday, May 15, 2011
Saturday, May 14, 2011
May 13 - travel day
One thing about travelling solo, you can always adjust your plans...and so I am staying in Italy instead of heading off for a Chunnel crossing...destination Milan, where I will fly from to London on May 16.
Today was travelling day...from Civitavecchia to Rome, Rome to Milan via Florence and Bologna. Most of the way was lush and green, and farmers already have their first hay crops ready for pick up. We did pass by some hoodoo type, rocky walls along a river but on the fast train it passes so fast you don't have time to grab your camera. It was also very picturesque with the mountains in the distance around the Valaderio area, blue skies and puffy white clouds (I know they are actually thunderheads amassing but they looked like big cotton balls). The further north we headed the flatter the land became and less interesting...though it did feature some solar panel farms. Other than those few farms I have not seen a lot of evidence of alternative energy in Italy.
The Milan central station is huge! But it has a very helpful tourist information, who found me a hotel for the night, right across the street (breakfast included).
So I spent what was left of the day, scouting out the surrounding neighborhood, eating gelato, drinking coffee and picked up a Milan Card for two days free public transport and reduced fares at attractions.
Once it got dark the thunder and lightning started and there was a heck of a boom crashing storm with torrential downpour for several hours. It really reverberated through the buildings like crazy...quite a light show, reminded me of some summer storms on the prairies.
Today was travelling day...from Civitavecchia to Rome, Rome to Milan via Florence and Bologna. Most of the way was lush and green, and farmers already have their first hay crops ready for pick up. We did pass by some hoodoo type, rocky walls along a river but on the fast train it passes so fast you don't have time to grab your camera. It was also very picturesque with the mountains in the distance around the Valaderio area, blue skies and puffy white clouds (I know they are actually thunderheads amassing but they looked like big cotton balls). The further north we headed the flatter the land became and less interesting...though it did feature some solar panel farms. Other than those few farms I have not seen a lot of evidence of alternative energy in Italy.
The Milan central station is huge! But it has a very helpful tourist information, who found me a hotel for the night, right across the street (breakfast included).
So I spent what was left of the day, scouting out the surrounding neighborhood, eating gelato, drinking coffee and picked up a Milan Card for two days free public transport and reduced fares at attractions.
Once it got dark the thunder and lightning started and there was a heck of a boom crashing storm with torrential downpour for several hours. It really reverberated through the buildings like crazy...quite a light show, reminded me of some summer storms on the prairies.
May 12 - Roma
I decided to stay in the hotel in Civitavecchia for another night and use the nine euro Berg ticket to take the train to Rome and use the local transport, buses and metro, which come free with the ticket.
Got off at St. Pietro Station and headed down to St. Peter's Square with the plan to see the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. I opted to join a guided tour that bypassed the lines to wait for tickets (40 euros though the ticket to the museum and chapel are about half that cost). Again, lucked out with an excellent guide (Ian from Scotland) and a small group that included a couple Aussies, and two young ladies from Saskatoon (small world as you meet Canadians wherever you go).
Throughout the tour of the museum the guide kept making references to various artworks that inspired characters in the Sistine Chapel frescoes and gave background on the numeric formulas found in nature and the human form (some call it sacred geometry). He was especially good at detailing the political content as Michaelangelo was not a painter and did not want to do the ceiling but was forced to by his patron the pope of the day. He had to learn how to do fresco painting which intails adding pigment to the wet plaster with no margin for error or you have to scrape off the plaster and start over. During the five years he worked on the ceiling he became very adept but hated the entire process as it kept him from his passion for sculpture. And because he hated it he put in various things into the painting guaranteed to anger the pope...his own form of revenge.
When the ceiling was done, Michaelangelo thought he was done but when a new pope came into power he wanted a fresco behind the alter and consigned the job to Michaelangelo. The story goes that the pope had brought a cardinal in to view the work in process and the cleric felt there was too much nudity...which afronted the artist, so he painted the cardinal 's face in as the keeper of the gates of hell with donkey ears and a tail. When he complained to the pope, the pope told him he only has jursidiction for earth and heaven and no say in hell...so the painting stays to this day. (That particular pope had a sense of humor I would say).
The museum is filled with priceless treasures, sculptures, tapestry, gifts to the pope...one huge bathtub (Nero's) in purple kind of marble that is so rare that there is none left is valued at 300 million euros and the museum has a few other pieces. Our guide noted that because so many of the pieces are priceless and irreplaceable they are not insured...what would be the point. Our two hour tour ended up being closer to three and I was starving by the time we finished so it was off to a cafe for spaghetti and meatballs...and capuccino.
By the time I treked back to St. Peter's I was done in, and the mosquitoes were once again eating me alive, so I caught the bus up the hill to the train station and headed back to Civitavecchia. Once back in my room I laid down for a nap...and didn't wake up until 6:30 the next morning...must have been tired.
Got off at St. Pietro Station and headed down to St. Peter's Square with the plan to see the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. I opted to join a guided tour that bypassed the lines to wait for tickets (40 euros though the ticket to the museum and chapel are about half that cost). Again, lucked out with an excellent guide (Ian from Scotland) and a small group that included a couple Aussies, and two young ladies from Saskatoon (small world as you meet Canadians wherever you go).
Throughout the tour of the museum the guide kept making references to various artworks that inspired characters in the Sistine Chapel frescoes and gave background on the numeric formulas found in nature and the human form (some call it sacred geometry). He was especially good at detailing the political content as Michaelangelo was not a painter and did not want to do the ceiling but was forced to by his patron the pope of the day. He had to learn how to do fresco painting which intails adding pigment to the wet plaster with no margin for error or you have to scrape off the plaster and start over. During the five years he worked on the ceiling he became very adept but hated the entire process as it kept him from his passion for sculpture. And because he hated it he put in various things into the painting guaranteed to anger the pope...his own form of revenge.
When the ceiling was done, Michaelangelo thought he was done but when a new pope came into power he wanted a fresco behind the alter and consigned the job to Michaelangelo. The story goes that the pope had brought a cardinal in to view the work in process and the cleric felt there was too much nudity...which afronted the artist, so he painted the cardinal 's face in as the keeper of the gates of hell with donkey ears and a tail. When he complained to the pope, the pope told him he only has jursidiction for earth and heaven and no say in hell...so the painting stays to this day. (That particular pope had a sense of humor I would say).
The museum is filled with priceless treasures, sculptures, tapestry, gifts to the pope...one huge bathtub (Nero's) in purple kind of marble that is so rare that there is none left is valued at 300 million euros and the museum has a few other pieces. Our guide noted that because so many of the pieces are priceless and irreplaceable they are not insured...what would be the point. Our two hour tour ended up being closer to three and I was starving by the time we finished so it was off to a cafe for spaghetti and meatballs...and capuccino.
By the time I treked back to St. Peter's I was done in, and the mosquitoes were once again eating me alive, so I caught the bus up the hill to the train station and headed back to Civitavecchia. Once back in my room I laid down for a nap...and didn't wake up until 6:30 the next morning...must have been tired.
May 11 - Civitavecchia
Back in sunshine...and hot, hot, hot in Civitavecchia. I was walking off with my luggage so enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before heading down the gangway for the last time. Caught the free shuttle bus to the port gates and headed up towards the train station. There were masses of people hauling their luggage up to the station and I got to thinking I really have no idea where I am heading next...it's hot, the ocean is beautiful...and that little cafe there is sure to have a nice Italian capuccino. And that is about as far as I got for the day as I opted to stay in town overnight, found The Roses Mediterraneo Hotel and got a room looking out over the Mediterranean.
I then found the seamen's shop with cheap internet (two hours for five euros) and did a little catch up on my email and blog and searching for travel options...though once all the cruise passengers finished treking past the town became a more laid back beachside atmosphere.
Went for supper at the restaurant just up from the hotel and encountered two of the snobbiest waiters...it started when the first started to pour me a glass of bubbly white wine, which I said I did not want as I can not drink on my medications...and he huffed off. The second waiter finally brought me the menu (pricey) and got indignant when I asked him to turn off the lamp that was blinding me at the table. I ordered the baby lamb chops, a green salad and a glass of water (32 euros). The waiters basically ignored me, other than to drop off my plate of overcooked lamb and wilted greens...and then I had to ask three times before they brought the bill. It wasn't that I wasn't dressed right, as other diners were in more casual clothes, and they weren't busy - just ignorant. Perhaps it was because I was eating there and was not a guest of the Hotel where the restaurant was located.
I then found the seamen's shop with cheap internet (two hours for five euros) and did a little catch up on my email and blog and searching for travel options...though once all the cruise passengers finished treking past the town became a more laid back beachside atmosphere.
Went for supper at the restaurant just up from the hotel and encountered two of the snobbiest waiters...it started when the first started to pour me a glass of bubbly white wine, which I said I did not want as I can not drink on my medications...and he huffed off. The second waiter finally brought me the menu (pricey) and got indignant when I asked him to turn off the lamp that was blinding me at the table. I ordered the baby lamb chops, a green salad and a glass of water (32 euros). The waiters basically ignored me, other than to drop off my plate of overcooked lamb and wilted greens...and then I had to ask three times before they brought the bill. It wasn't that I wasn't dressed right, as other diners were in more casual clothes, and they weren't busy - just ignorant. Perhaps it was because I was eating there and was not a guest of the Hotel where the restaurant was located.
Friday, May 13, 2011
May 10 - final day of cruising
We cruised around the toe of Italy and I watched the scenery during our passage through the strait as we were very close to land. An old merchant marine was grumbling because the ship had to take on a pilot to pass through the strait and he couldn't see why that was necessary...but the area was busy with traffic on the water what with ferries, and pleasure craft, fishing boats and the big cruise ships passing through.
Kind of a blustery, grey day which saw all the sun worshippers forced indoors, which meant you really noticed how crowded the boat can get with everyone trying to find something to entertain themselves during the day. I opted for bingo...and at the last bingo the Snowball bonanza had to go. I was one of the lucky ones who shared the $1504 prize winning just over $500...that helped with my onboard expenses bill!
Supper was a last chance to say goodbye to friends made on board, pass over the tips envelopes to staff, before it was time to go pack for the early morning disembarkation in Civitavecchia.
Kind of a blustery, grey day which saw all the sun worshippers forced indoors, which meant you really noticed how crowded the boat can get with everyone trying to find something to entertain themselves during the day. I opted for bingo...and at the last bingo the Snowball bonanza had to go. I was one of the lucky ones who shared the $1504 prize winning just over $500...that helped with my onboard expenses bill!
Supper was a last chance to say goodbye to friends made on board, pass over the tips envelopes to staff, before it was time to go pack for the early morning disembarkation in Civitavecchia.
May 9 - Port of Chania
The port of Chania is on the Island of Crete and we had just a short final port stay as it was all aboard by 1:30. Shuttle buses took guests from the ship to the central market (about six km from the ship) and there were masses of roses blooming everywhere.
I took a quick tour through the central market hall and enjoyed watching the cat at the butcher's stall carefully watching the men layering today's catch of fish on ice - just waiting for one of the fishy morsels to slide off. It was very touristy in the area, so I opted to sit and people watch over a nice coffee. My next adventure was to try and find a post office to mail some postcards. That proved fruitless as every time I asked a local where the post office was (stamps, mailbox) I got a different answer. After a few false starts I gave up and hopped the shuttle back to the ship.
During lunch onboard, one of the ladies at the table noted that twenty years ago Chania was a sleepy little fishing village, now it is all tourism built up. She added that the other side of Crete island has beautiful beaches and some of the friendliest people (too bad we did not have time to see more of the island).
Once we were underway and cruising I headed topside only to find it was very windy and chilly. I guess that means I finish reading the library book I signed out and catch up on my blog journal.
Seeing alot of guests sneezing, wheezing and coughing, and fighting a sore throat myself today so I grabbed the early show - a great Motown review - then had a light supper and called it a night. (Ah, gee - I missed the 70's disco party on the Promenade that started at 11 pm - I hadn't brought my dancing boots anyhow).
I guess it got a bit stormy during the night, with a lightning show and heavy rain. And during the night our ship was called to respond to a red flare ship in distress. Apparently a yacht was struck by lightning, taking out the electrical/operating systems and the boat was taking on water. Our ship picked up the yacht's three passengers during the rescue operation so we have three new guests. (Or so the gossip on board goes...all the captain said was we were called to respond to the red flare and rescued three passengers from the boat in distress)...and I slept through it all. However, I will add it to my 'bizarre events while travelling' along with the bomb while on the way to Potsdam near Berlin.
I took a quick tour through the central market hall and enjoyed watching the cat at the butcher's stall carefully watching the men layering today's catch of fish on ice - just waiting for one of the fishy morsels to slide off. It was very touristy in the area, so I opted to sit and people watch over a nice coffee. My next adventure was to try and find a post office to mail some postcards. That proved fruitless as every time I asked a local where the post office was (stamps, mailbox) I got a different answer. After a few false starts I gave up and hopped the shuttle back to the ship.
During lunch onboard, one of the ladies at the table noted that twenty years ago Chania was a sleepy little fishing village, now it is all tourism built up. She added that the other side of Crete island has beautiful beaches and some of the friendliest people (too bad we did not have time to see more of the island).
Once we were underway and cruising I headed topside only to find it was very windy and chilly. I guess that means I finish reading the library book I signed out and catch up on my blog journal.
Seeing alot of guests sneezing, wheezing and coughing, and fighting a sore throat myself today so I grabbed the early show - a great Motown review - then had a light supper and called it a night. (Ah, gee - I missed the 70's disco party on the Promenade that started at 11 pm - I hadn't brought my dancing boots anyhow).
I guess it got a bit stormy during the night, with a lightning show and heavy rain. And during the night our ship was called to respond to a red flare ship in distress. Apparently a yacht was struck by lightning, taking out the electrical/operating systems and the boat was taking on water. Our ship picked up the yacht's three passengers during the rescue operation so we have three new guests. (Or so the gossip on board goes...all the captain said was we were called to respond to the red flare and rescued three passengers from the boat in distress)...and I slept through it all. However, I will add it to my 'bizarre events while travelling' along with the bomb while on the way to Potsdam near Berlin.
Kusadasi, Turkey and sunshine
Kusadasi, Turkey was the port of call for today on another beautiful sunny day on the Aegean Sea. It is one of the most popular seaside resorts in Turkey. During the summer high season the 50,000 population are overrun by some five million tourists. Fortuntely, we are stopping just as the tourist season is beginning - a good time to come according to our guide as you can make the best bargains when shopping.
The tour today was to the ancient ruins of Ephesus, the most important ruins in Turkey and considered one of the most magnificent in the world. This open air archeological museum is only a part of what is still buried in the surrounding poppy covered hillside. The Odeon, Fountain of Trajan, steam baths of Scholastika, temple of Hadrian and facade of the Library of Celsius are as impressive as the public latrines with running water. You walk the Arcadian Way where Anthony and Cleopatra once rode in procession. The Grand Theater, where guests were testing the echo acoustics by singing (group of Aussies did Waltzing Matilda while another lady recited poetry), had a capacity of 24,000 and was one of the largest in antiquity. It is also the theatre where St. Paul preached, only to be stoned and imprisoned for denouncing the Greek gods. (It is believed he escaped his prison during an earthquake - a regular occurence in the area).
One of the oddities at this site were the number of feral cats, sunning on the ancient mosaics or begging food from the visitors - they kept creeping out of holes in the walls.
The tour to the ruins wrapped up with a short play depicting the pomp and pageantry of ancient times, along with the gladiator brutal entertainment. Then we had to run the gauntlet of shops to the bus, with the aggressive shopkeepers constant refrain 'Now you see my shop!' After a couple hours in the hot sun, a fresh squeezed, icy cold orange juice was my shop purchase.
Our final stop of the tour was at a turkish carpet outlet back at the port, where we saw how the silk thread is made and watched a woman (only woman make the carpets) doing the double knot, thread by thread, one knot at a time in the construction. The carpet she had been working on for two months (four hours a day) had only a couple of inches (about five) complete on the three foot runner carpet. The owner explained that the design she is working on has 600 knots in every square inch of the intricate pattern.
While we sipped apple tea (or wine) and ate a hot herbal bread, the shops men rolled out samples of wool, cashmere, silk and cotton carpets - a sea of color. It was like going through an art gallery as each piece was exquisite as it was unrolled and spun around for viewing. This particular carpet shop won the international first prize in the US last year for a magnificent natural fibre (silk) that had taken two workers 18 months to complete. Can you imagine spending that much time on one project? Really beautiful work, and a few people even managed to purchase...free shipping to your home country. When you pick the carpet and purchase you sign the back so you know when FedEx delivers you know you have the carpet you paid for in Turkey.
The tour today was to the ancient ruins of Ephesus, the most important ruins in Turkey and considered one of the most magnificent in the world. This open air archeological museum is only a part of what is still buried in the surrounding poppy covered hillside. The Odeon, Fountain of Trajan, steam baths of Scholastika, temple of Hadrian and facade of the Library of Celsius are as impressive as the public latrines with running water. You walk the Arcadian Way where Anthony and Cleopatra once rode in procession. The Grand Theater, where guests were testing the echo acoustics by singing (group of Aussies did Waltzing Matilda while another lady recited poetry), had a capacity of 24,000 and was one of the largest in antiquity. It is also the theatre where St. Paul preached, only to be stoned and imprisoned for denouncing the Greek gods. (It is believed he escaped his prison during an earthquake - a regular occurence in the area).
One of the oddities at this site were the number of feral cats, sunning on the ancient mosaics or begging food from the visitors - they kept creeping out of holes in the walls.
The tour to the ruins wrapped up with a short play depicting the pomp and pageantry of ancient times, along with the gladiator brutal entertainment. Then we had to run the gauntlet of shops to the bus, with the aggressive shopkeepers constant refrain 'Now you see my shop!' After a couple hours in the hot sun, a fresh squeezed, icy cold orange juice was my shop purchase.
Our final stop of the tour was at a turkish carpet outlet back at the port, where we saw how the silk thread is made and watched a woman (only woman make the carpets) doing the double knot, thread by thread, one knot at a time in the construction. The carpet she had been working on for two months (four hours a day) had only a couple of inches (about five) complete on the three foot runner carpet. The owner explained that the design she is working on has 600 knots in every square inch of the intricate pattern.
While we sipped apple tea (or wine) and ate a hot herbal bread, the shops men rolled out samples of wool, cashmere, silk and cotton carpets - a sea of color. It was like going through an art gallery as each piece was exquisite as it was unrolled and spun around for viewing. This particular carpet shop won the international first prize in the US last year for a magnificent natural fibre (silk) that had taken two workers 18 months to complete. Can you imagine spending that much time on one project? Really beautiful work, and a few people even managed to purchase...free shipping to your home country. When you pick the carpet and purchase you sign the back so you know when FedEx delivers you know you have the carpet you paid for in Turkey.
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