Following a sumptous breakfast buffet we were off on a walking tour of Passau. I joined the pacers group. I like the fact there is an option for those who may be a little slower or physically challenged, especially when it comes to climbing hills and wobbling about on cobblestones. We had an excellent guide whose obvious love of the city was reflected in her knowledge and background stories that brought the city to life...But it did not trigger any enthusiasm to do the Pilgrimage Walk up the 300 plus stairs praying at each step. The highlight was the visit to St. Stephans and the pipe organ. The church has the largest pipe organ in Europe, which is actually five organs linked and played by one organist. The pipes range from 6 cm to 11 meters and I wish I could remember exactly how many pipes, though 17000 plus seems to be sticking in my brain. I managed to find a CD of an organ concert in a souvenier shop (after a bit of a search) and that will serve as a reminder of the visit. There was limited access to the church due to holy week confessions slotted so we were lucky to get in to see the lavish church and one of a kind organ.
We were then left on our own to wander back to the ship. I joined new friends Joy and Rob for a capuccino and torte in a lovely cafe just off the square. It had these huge chairs that felt like you were sitting on a throne as you ate the rich pastry.
We also stopped at the Glass Museum, which is tucked into the unassuming Hotel Wilder Mann. It was quite a surprise and well worth the five euro admission, as you found rooms full of glass treasures, tucked into every corner, up and down. It is actually an important research centre for European Glass from 1650 to 1950 with Baroque, Rococo, Empire, Biedermeier, Historism, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modernism pieces in the 30,000 glass pieces on exhibit. One of my favorite rooms was the beautiful cut glass crystal in a darkened room with blue backlighting that really highlighted the sparkle of the glass. Many of the hand painted pieces were exquisite as well though by the end we were all feeling a little overloaded by the variety, spectrum of sizes and designs.
It was all aboard for 2:45 p.m.as we sailed out of the city on three rivers, and onto the Danube with a last look back at the spires of Passau. The afternoon was spent relaxing as we cruised taking in the passing scenery on our way to Linz.
The evening was the Captains welcome cocktails in the lounge followed by his welcome dinner which is a set menu with the exception of choice of main course. Shall I give you a run down...three starters with a fine French white wine - appetizer of Charlotte potato with creme fraiche and golden pearls of Keta caviar, followed by a salad of string beans and salad leaves with cromesquis of braised oxtail, drizzled with walnut oil and sherry vinegar dressing, then Sauteed bay scallops on a bed of spinach leaves drizzled with Rhine wine Beurre Blanc...pineapple sorbet to clear the palate then choice of main, either roasted veal tenderloin with gremolata and natural jus, served with stir friend vegetables and truffle mashed potatoes, or sauteed butterfish with herb crust, presented on mixed vegetables, saffron potatoes and dried tomato butter - served with a fine French red wine. Then they bring on the dessert - honeycomb icecream served beside a Guanaja chocolate dome sprinkled with caramel sauce, followed by a selection of cheeses and to finish petit fours. The saving grace is that the various portion sizes of each item is small enough to allow you to make it through the elaborate menu.
Entertainment for the evening was a couple of fellows in lederhosen regaling us with Austro-Bavarian folk stories and music in the lounge as we continued to cruise into Linz.
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