Slept in and lazed about for a bit before heading out in the neighborhood to do laundry...yes I do have to take time out to wash my socks, etc. Speaking of socks...it is universal that socks disappear in laundry rooms as I now have two lonely socks with no mates. If it keeps up I will have to invest in a few pairs before my travels are over.
Breakfast at the pastry shop...I think I am becoming addicted as they have wonderful croissant type pastries filled with meats and cheese, etc beside the sweets. Heated brie and speake (a type of ham I think) was a perfect breakfast along with their delicious cafe latte. I think I am considered a regular as they start on my coffee as I come through the door, so it is ready by the time I finish deciding what to try at the pastry counter. So far I have managed to avoid the cake and torte cases as they simply look too wicked to consider.
Worked on my blog for the rest of the morning, then headed out on the bus for a farewell tour of Florence and to do a little retail therapy. I also thought I should try some Italian pizza while I was here and made that my late lunch with a tasty artichoke heart, mushroom and cheese slice coupled with a small cannoli cream and pistashio filled pastry along with the usual latte. Asked for the toilet at the restaurant only to find it was a disgusting unisex squat toilet - NO THANKS!
By the way it is possible to find plus size clothes and the OVS in the city centre had a good selection, so I was able to find a white blouse to replace the one that has worn out in my travels. Also got a recommendation a tube of anti-itch gel from the pharmacy to deal with the ongoing mosquito bite drama.
It was then time to head back to the apartment and get organized for my travels tomorrow - out to another ship - this time a big one Royal Caribbean's Mariner of the Seas.
Thursday, April 28, 2011
April 27 - More of Florence
Another sunny day in Florence...and something you need to know if you are heading here at this time of year, bring mosquito repellent. The Italian mosquitoes are brutal with bites that itch like crazy and leave large red blotches wherever they bite. My packed anti-itch cream doesn't seem to be having much effect, but I now know that much of what I thought was bad skin on locals is actually these mosquito bites.
The chambermaids have graciously put an anti-bug plug-in contraption to kill any off in the apartment, where I think they were eating me alive while I slept with my window open. I headed out on the bus to do a little hop on, hop off to check out the old city gates, forts and a few more of the squares about town. Walked along the waterway around the famed bridge where a ton of gold jewellery is sold, sticking my nose into little art galleries along the way, stopping for gelato and cafe lattes. I am afraid I am a lazy tourist, opting to see whatever falls into my path rather than following the crowds and standing in lines for hours.
I am amused by ironworks, detailed doors, building embellishments, sneak peaks into interior courtyards, statues and artwork everywhere you turn, parks and cafes...but I can't tell you where I have seen things, or necessarily what they are as I am living in the moment and not documenting as I go. I am even finding that I am starting to resent my camera...I am tired of taking pictures and just want to enjoy what I am seeing.
I am experiencing the city not only by sight but smell and sound and stopping to taste as well...that is my Florence for today.
I did make a stop back at the train station where there was hardly a line-up at all so I managed to take care ot the business of making reservations for my Friday trains. I find it inconvenient to have to make the reservations for travel in Italy on my Eurail Pass, especially as I don't have computer access.
Back in my neighborhood, I had a coffee and pastry at the local shop, then decided to treat my feet to a pedicure at the little shop next door...just what the doctor ordered. They felt so good after the royal treatment that my feet didn't want to spoil it by walking any further than next door to the pastry shop for a savory for supper and a latte to go.
At the apartment I rented the computer and paid for some internet time to catch up on emails, etc. But the internet is still too slow to upload pictures. Someday, all these blogs will get updated with pictures.
The chambermaids have graciously put an anti-bug plug-in contraption to kill any off in the apartment, where I think they were eating me alive while I slept with my window open. I headed out on the bus to do a little hop on, hop off to check out the old city gates, forts and a few more of the squares about town. Walked along the waterway around the famed bridge where a ton of gold jewellery is sold, sticking my nose into little art galleries along the way, stopping for gelato and cafe lattes. I am afraid I am a lazy tourist, opting to see whatever falls into my path rather than following the crowds and standing in lines for hours.
I am amused by ironworks, detailed doors, building embellishments, sneak peaks into interior courtyards, statues and artwork everywhere you turn, parks and cafes...but I can't tell you where I have seen things, or necessarily what they are as I am living in the moment and not documenting as I go. I am even finding that I am starting to resent my camera...I am tired of taking pictures and just want to enjoy what I am seeing.
I am experiencing the city not only by sight but smell and sound and stopping to taste as well...that is my Florence for today.
I did make a stop back at the train station where there was hardly a line-up at all so I managed to take care ot the business of making reservations for my Friday trains. I find it inconvenient to have to make the reservations for travel in Italy on my Eurail Pass, especially as I don't have computer access.
Back in my neighborhood, I had a coffee and pastry at the local shop, then decided to treat my feet to a pedicure at the little shop next door...just what the doctor ordered. They felt so good after the royal treatment that my feet didn't want to spoil it by walking any further than next door to the pastry shop for a savory for supper and a latte to go.
At the apartment I rented the computer and paid for some internet time to catch up on emails, etc. But the internet is still too slow to upload pictures. Someday, all these blogs will get updated with pictures.
April 26 - Fabulous Florence
First stop for the day was breakfast at the pasticceria, which just like it sounds is a pastry shop right across the street with creamy cafe lattes to go with the croissants/pastries. It is obviously popular with locals coming and going for their shot of expresso and sugar fix of choice.
I then did a stroll around the neighborhood to pick up a few groceries, which wasn't that easy when everything is in Italian and most shopkeepers don't speak any English, so I kept it simple - milk, juice, yoghurt, premade sandwich. Couldn't for the life of me find any eggs or coffee...despite checking three local small shops, and the green grocers had limited selection - alot of strawberries which I am allergic to, some very green pears and battered oranges and a few bananas at 1.6 euros each (which is over $2 Canadian per banana). I guess that means I will be eating out mostly.
I also picked up a ten ride bus card, which is half the price of paying for individual tickets, at the local tobacco and lottery ticket shop. After dropping my few purchases back at the apartment, I headed out on the bus to the downtown core where all the major tourist attractions are, though my plans were to hit the fringe areas. The bells were tolling and I headed into the beautiful gilded church of Annunciata di Firenze. It seemed rather odd to be sitting in a communion church service while tourists walked in and around the church, even snapping pictures. I sat and observed until the service was over than did a quick tour before they announced for everyone to leave as they were locking up...apparently it is not regularly open to tourist traffic. I then walked around the area, soaking in the ancient feel of the buildings, from the fully restored and embellished to the crumbling. Ended up in the square with the Duomo Cathedral and battled the crowds to have another look at the Giabertti doors in all their golden glory.
I continued to explore side streets and made a stop and tour of the Leonardo Da Vinci museum which features his machine inventions, many of the machines are interactive. Eventually my wandering got me to San Lorenzo, just across from the train station, so I went to check out making reservations for the Friday train to Civitavecchia. The line ups were ridiculous so I grabbed a bowl of fruit and a water in the cafeteria then caught the bus back to the apartment.
A quick wash up and I headed out for dinner at the local restaurant Mastrobulletta again, and had a great plate of octopus, cuttlefish and mussels in a spicy tomato sauce. To finish the day off I had another piece of the chocolate pear cake concoction.
I then did a stroll around the neighborhood to pick up a few groceries, which wasn't that easy when everything is in Italian and most shopkeepers don't speak any English, so I kept it simple - milk, juice, yoghurt, premade sandwich. Couldn't for the life of me find any eggs or coffee...despite checking three local small shops, and the green grocers had limited selection - alot of strawberries which I am allergic to, some very green pears and battered oranges and a few bananas at 1.6 euros each (which is over $2 Canadian per banana). I guess that means I will be eating out mostly.
I also picked up a ten ride bus card, which is half the price of paying for individual tickets, at the local tobacco and lottery ticket shop. After dropping my few purchases back at the apartment, I headed out on the bus to the downtown core where all the major tourist attractions are, though my plans were to hit the fringe areas. The bells were tolling and I headed into the beautiful gilded church of Annunciata di Firenze. It seemed rather odd to be sitting in a communion church service while tourists walked in and around the church, even snapping pictures. I sat and observed until the service was over than did a quick tour before they announced for everyone to leave as they were locking up...apparently it is not regularly open to tourist traffic. I then walked around the area, soaking in the ancient feel of the buildings, from the fully restored and embellished to the crumbling. Ended up in the square with the Duomo Cathedral and battled the crowds to have another look at the Giabertti doors in all their golden glory.
I continued to explore side streets and made a stop and tour of the Leonardo Da Vinci museum which features his machine inventions, many of the machines are interactive. Eventually my wandering got me to San Lorenzo, just across from the train station, so I went to check out making reservations for the Friday train to Civitavecchia. The line ups were ridiculous so I grabbed a bowl of fruit and a water in the cafeteria then caught the bus back to the apartment.
A quick wash up and I headed out for dinner at the local restaurant Mastrobulletta again, and had a great plate of octopus, cuttlefish and mussels in a spicy tomato sauce. To finish the day off I had another piece of the chocolate pear cake concoction.
April 24 and 25 - Easter and trains, travel to Italy
After breakfast it was a last farewell to the River Beatrice as the taxi headed to the train station to catch the first train back to Vienna to the south station on the outskirts. I then had a five and a half hour wait until the night train headed out to Florence. So I locked by luggage into a locker and headed out for a walk around the neighborhood looking for a place to eat. Other than the Macdonalds and MacCafe nothing was open in the area. I headed back to the station to people watch and grab a gyro for my Easter dinner (quite a change from the gourmet on board). Obviously the shop hadn't had their usual flow of customers as the meat was crisp and more like leather than the regular juicy gyro. I couldn't even chew through it so I picked it off and had a tomato, onion and lettuce on pita for my Easter dinner.
Was interesting people watching as many obviously split families met in the centre of the station to hand over children, along with families seeing off visiting family members for the Easter weekend. I also saw a lot of twins. The other thing I just can't get used to is the number of cigarette smokers, especially in public areas. It is especially sad to see the young people buying cigs and chain smoking.
I picked up a tomato and cheese sandwich and coffee and headed up to the platform for the last hour. Had a nice chat with a group of Filipino workers, on their way home after an Easter get together (reminded me of Rocky Mountain House).
The train to Rome and on to Florence is a night train - my first experience in the sleeping (couchette) car, with shared four or six to a compartment. I shared with two other ladies and fortunately had a lower berth though I would have to say it is not very comfortable (but at least you can lay down and get your feet up). Olga said you get rocked like a baby, but admitted she usually doesn't get much sleep. Between the rocking, clickety clack and squealing wheels, than the sudden stillness-silence at stops, I now know why you don't get much sleep.
Once I arrived in Florence at 6:18 a.m. and the taxi ride to my apartment in Residence Il Giglio, I needed a few of hours sleep. That was followed by a good soak in the tub and I was ready to explore my new neighborhood and find something to eat. I was lucky to find anything open, as other than in the tourist area everything is closed for the Easter Monday holiday. Mastrobulletta opened for lunch and from the senior clientele stopping in I think it was to make sure the regulars had a hot meal. Food was great - pesto sauced gnocchi with calamari and shrimp at the reasonable price of nine euros. The caffe latte was so tasty I ordered another with my dessert, a cake the waitress recommended. What a cake - think like pastry on the top and bottom and stuffed with pears and the creamiest chocolate - to die for tasty.
After a siesta I hopped a bus for the overview tour and enjoyed driving thru the throngs of people at the hot spots as I don't have the energy to tackle crowds today. I actually saw a lot of the city and now have a better idea of what I want to visit while in Florence.
Back in the "hood" I headed out to the local church, whose bells had been marking the passing of the day. "Cheisa dei Santi Gervasio e Protasio" is documented back to 1083, and inside are some late 16th century paintings, including two by Tito. The main door is quite beautiful with a sculptured descending dove dominating the wooden door. There are also a couple of statures honoring saints, along with a modern metal sculptural piece in the adjoining park. The ancient and the art are taken for granted, just part of everyday life - like the garbage dumpsters and recycle bin lining the street along the side of the church.
With everything closed I headed home for my supper of an apple, granola bar and tea. I also had a package of microwave popcorn which I tried to make in a post on the two burner stove in the apartment. To start with if you ever open a microwave popcorn bag, you may think twice about ever eating it as the corn is imbedded in a lot of lard-looking salty fat. And just to add to your store of useless information, microwave popcorn does not pop very well in a pot.
Was interesting people watching as many obviously split families met in the centre of the station to hand over children, along with families seeing off visiting family members for the Easter weekend. I also saw a lot of twins. The other thing I just can't get used to is the number of cigarette smokers, especially in public areas. It is especially sad to see the young people buying cigs and chain smoking.
I picked up a tomato and cheese sandwich and coffee and headed up to the platform for the last hour. Had a nice chat with a group of Filipino workers, on their way home after an Easter get together (reminded me of Rocky Mountain House).
The train to Rome and on to Florence is a night train - my first experience in the sleeping (couchette) car, with shared four or six to a compartment. I shared with two other ladies and fortunately had a lower berth though I would have to say it is not very comfortable (but at least you can lay down and get your feet up). Olga said you get rocked like a baby, but admitted she usually doesn't get much sleep. Between the rocking, clickety clack and squealing wheels, than the sudden stillness-silence at stops, I now know why you don't get much sleep.
Once I arrived in Florence at 6:18 a.m. and the taxi ride to my apartment in Residence Il Giglio, I needed a few of hours sleep. That was followed by a good soak in the tub and I was ready to explore my new neighborhood and find something to eat. I was lucky to find anything open, as other than in the tourist area everything is closed for the Easter Monday holiday. Mastrobulletta opened for lunch and from the senior clientele stopping in I think it was to make sure the regulars had a hot meal. Food was great - pesto sauced gnocchi with calamari and shrimp at the reasonable price of nine euros. The caffe latte was so tasty I ordered another with my dessert, a cake the waitress recommended. What a cake - think like pastry on the top and bottom and stuffed with pears and the creamiest chocolate - to die for tasty.
After a siesta I hopped a bus for the overview tour and enjoyed driving thru the throngs of people at the hot spots as I don't have the energy to tackle crowds today. I actually saw a lot of the city and now have a better idea of what I want to visit while in Florence.
Back in the "hood" I headed out to the local church, whose bells had been marking the passing of the day. "Cheisa dei Santi Gervasio e Protasio" is documented back to 1083, and inside are some late 16th century paintings, including two by Tito. The main door is quite beautiful with a sculptured descending dove dominating the wooden door. There are also a couple of statures honoring saints, along with a modern metal sculptural piece in the adjoining park. The ancient and the art are taken for granted, just part of everyday life - like the garbage dumpsters and recycle bin lining the street along the side of the church.
With everything closed I headed home for my supper of an apple, granola bar and tea. I also had a package of microwave popcorn which I tried to make in a post on the two burner stove in the apartment. To start with if you ever open a microwave popcorn bag, you may think twice about ever eating it as the corn is imbedded in a lot of lard-looking salty fat. And just to add to your store of useless information, microwave popcorn does not pop very well in a pot.
April 23 Budapest
I woke early enough to catch the rosy sunrise over the Danube out my window, as we cruised towards Budapest ...opening the window/door to enjoy the crisp morning air, water lapping against the hull, and the call of birds on the shoreline...very peaceful. By 7:30 I was showered and up on the sundeck to catch the views as we sailed into Budapest, in particular the imposing neo-gothic Parliament Building that overlooks the Danube, The city is made up of two parts divided by the river - Buda (the hills) and Pest (the flatlands)
After breakfast it was time for the city tours and I opted for the Classic City tour where we started by crossing the chain bridge, the early 19th century bridge was the first to join Buda and Pest, and on to Heroes Square and the Millenial Monument that honors Hungary's greatest historical figures.
From there we headed to a church in a "castle with moat" that was originally built out of papermache for a special event but people loved so much that they had the architect rebuild it out of mortar and brick to become a permanent part of the city and parks. We were treated to an organ concert at the church before boarding the bus to continue our tour of the Jewish quarter, and the high security area around and to get into the Great Synagogue (the guide noted security screening is higher than airport security screening), by the state Opera House, St. Stephan's Basilica, and around the Parliament before heading over to Buda.
The Castle Hill area is another designated UNESCO World Heritage Site with over 170 buildings dating back to the 13th and 14th century. We walked the streets to St. Matthias Church with the statue of St. Stephan, the founder of Hungary (first king who was later declared a saint). Due to Easter weekend services the church was not open to the public, so we climbed up to the turrets and ramparts of the Fisherman's Bastion. Built in the 19th century the fairy-tale inspired architecture honors the fishermen who defended Buda from the Turks during the middle ages. From the top of the Bastion you have a panoramic view of the city and the river below.
Then it was back to the ship for lunch and an afternoon at your leisure. I opted to take advantage of the thermal spa waters of Buda at the Gellert Spa...unfortunately I laid down for a few minutes rest and woke too late to make the trek to the spa. So I took in the on-board Danube fine art lecture and art exhibition, while doing my laundry.
We were then entertained by a Hungarian folklore and operetta show by the "Melody Group" in the lounge.
Great gypsy music, singing and dancing to get our toes tapping before our last dinner together.
The last dinner is a last chance to say farewell, exchange addresses and emails as well as reminisce about favorite highlights of the cruise (along with planning for the next river cruise). Then it is time to pack for the early morning disembarkation as the rooms have to be vacated by 8:30 a.m.
After breakfast it was time for the city tours and I opted for the Classic City tour where we started by crossing the chain bridge, the early 19th century bridge was the first to join Buda and Pest, and on to Heroes Square and the Millenial Monument that honors Hungary's greatest historical figures.
From there we headed to a church in a "castle with moat" that was originally built out of papermache for a special event but people loved so much that they had the architect rebuild it out of mortar and brick to become a permanent part of the city and parks. We were treated to an organ concert at the church before boarding the bus to continue our tour of the Jewish quarter, and the high security area around and to get into the Great Synagogue (the guide noted security screening is higher than airport security screening), by the state Opera House, St. Stephan's Basilica, and around the Parliament before heading over to Buda.
The Castle Hill area is another designated UNESCO World Heritage Site with over 170 buildings dating back to the 13th and 14th century. We walked the streets to St. Matthias Church with the statue of St. Stephan, the founder of Hungary (first king who was later declared a saint). Due to Easter weekend services the church was not open to the public, so we climbed up to the turrets and ramparts of the Fisherman's Bastion. Built in the 19th century the fairy-tale inspired architecture honors the fishermen who defended Buda from the Turks during the middle ages. From the top of the Bastion you have a panoramic view of the city and the river below.
Then it was back to the ship for lunch and an afternoon at your leisure. I opted to take advantage of the thermal spa waters of Buda at the Gellert Spa...unfortunately I laid down for a few minutes rest and woke too late to make the trek to the spa. So I took in the on-board Danube fine art lecture and art exhibition, while doing my laundry.
We were then entertained by a Hungarian folklore and operetta show by the "Melody Group" in the lounge.
Great gypsy music, singing and dancing to get our toes tapping before our last dinner together.
The last dinner is a last chance to say farewell, exchange addresses and emails as well as reminisce about favorite highlights of the cruise (along with planning for the next river cruise). Then it is time to pack for the early morning disembarkation as the rooms have to be vacated by 8:30 a.m.
April 22 - Cruising to Budapest
The morning was free to further explore Vienna but by the time I got moving, had breakfast and enough coffee to start thinking where to go it would have been a rush to see or do anything before we had to be back on board to head down the river. I was still feeling sore from the previous day's exertions and fighting a headache, so I booked a massage with the ship masseur Balazs. The captain had said he had magic hands and I would have to agree as my headache was gone, I could rotate my left arm without pain and my feet and knees were floating on a cloud.
I was surprised at how 'new' and cosmopolitan Vienna felt but that was explained by our tour guide as most of the buildings were badly destroyed during the war and therefore had to be rebuilt from old plans, so the buildings are largely new. The cosmopolitan, big city feel I thinks comes from being one of the major centres for the UN with over 3000 people in their employ, more than New York one American noted. It definitely felt more like a modern city than many others visited to date.
At one o'clock we set out for Budapest and an afternoon and evening of leisurely sailing. In the process I managed to be in three countries in one day - Vienna and Austria, through Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, and on to Hungary, and the multitude of tiny fishing huts along the shores. It is quite a chore to be a fisherman, as you have to pay several hundred dollars and go to school to get a fishing license, then you have to lease a piece of river to fish from - about 30 meters at a fee of around a thousand dollars a year - and then you are limited as to what fish you can catch, how many, etc. Not like Canada where you pay your twenty or thirty dollars for a license, grab your rod and bait and head out to any stream or river that is open for fishing.
As it was Good Friday, the Captain held his farewell special dinner tonight starting with champagne cocktails in the lounge before another fabulous dinner. The menu included shrimp cocktail with a chili and tomato vinaigrette and seasonal salad leaves, followed by spring asparagus soup with pistachio creme (served with a French white wine), then champagne sorbet to clean the palate (as the gourmet's would say). The main choices were pan fried beef tournedo served with sauteed foie gras, macaire potato, seasonal vegetable in a rich port wine sauce or grilled salmon fillet and jumbo shrimp with sauteed spinach, white asparagus, negro risotto and herb beurre blanc (served with a 2008 French red wine). Dessert was the baked alaska parade followed by the cheese board and petit fours.
I was surprised at how 'new' and cosmopolitan Vienna felt but that was explained by our tour guide as most of the buildings were badly destroyed during the war and therefore had to be rebuilt from old plans, so the buildings are largely new. The cosmopolitan, big city feel I thinks comes from being one of the major centres for the UN with over 3000 people in their employ, more than New York one American noted. It definitely felt more like a modern city than many others visited to date.
At one o'clock we set out for Budapest and an afternoon and evening of leisurely sailing. In the process I managed to be in three countries in one day - Vienna and Austria, through Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, and on to Hungary, and the multitude of tiny fishing huts along the shores. It is quite a chore to be a fisherman, as you have to pay several hundred dollars and go to school to get a fishing license, then you have to lease a piece of river to fish from - about 30 meters at a fee of around a thousand dollars a year - and then you are limited as to what fish you can catch, how many, etc. Not like Canada where you pay your twenty or thirty dollars for a license, grab your rod and bait and head out to any stream or river that is open for fishing.
As it was Good Friday, the Captain held his farewell special dinner tonight starting with champagne cocktails in the lounge before another fabulous dinner. The menu included shrimp cocktail with a chili and tomato vinaigrette and seasonal salad leaves, followed by spring asparagus soup with pistachio creme (served with a French white wine), then champagne sorbet to clean the palate (as the gourmet's would say). The main choices were pan fried beef tournedo served with sauteed foie gras, macaire potato, seasonal vegetable in a rich port wine sauce or grilled salmon fillet and jumbo shrimp with sauteed spinach, white asparagus, negro risotto and herb beurre blanc (served with a 2008 French red wine). Dessert was the baked alaska parade followed by the cheese board and petit fours.
April 21 - Vienna
Following breakfast there was an informative lecture on Austria's history in the context of the house of Habsburg before we headed out for the classic Vienna City Tour, (and checking out the locals for the Habsburg lip and overbite jaw that we had just learned about). The bus took us and the guide around the ringroad and past highlight buildings like the Opera House, Imperial Palace and Vienna City Hall. We got off at St. Stephan's for a short walk through the inner city, catching the Lippizaner Stallions in their stalls while others were in the arena practising (the horses start training when young but don't actually perform until they turn completely white, at around seven years of age - that's if they prove they are capable). The main stop on the walking tour was the National Library, beautifully ornate but functional as it houses over 1 million books, some in 20 km of shelving underground.
The afternoon was free time to further explore Vienna. I headed up to the train station to make my reservations for the train to Florence after the river cruise, then headed over to the amusement park to ride the oldest surviving wooden car ferris wheel - the Wiener Riesenrad. The trip is just one very slow round on the giant wheel in a car with about ten other people, but it gives you a bird's eye over the city. There are cars on the wheel that can be booked for a special dinner or private party and I saw a couple go by with the white linens and wine glasses all set up. I walked back to the ship window shopping along the way and after being surrounded by easter decor for the past few weeks I broke down and bought an embroidered table cloth with bunnies and spring flowers - all set for next year at Easter. It was a very long day of walking, and my body was complaining as I did the final leg down the hill and to the dock. The answer, afternoon tea, hot shower and feet up for 15 minutes before it was time for early dinner as many were heading out for the optional tour of a Vienna Concert.
The concert was in the music hall where the Strauss brothers used to play in order to support the family when their father left. It was a delightful evening of entertainment, with Strauss and Mozart music, ballet and opera-operatta singers to give us a taste of Viennese culture. The evening concluded with another bus tour to enjoy the night lights on the ringroad as we headed back to the ship.
The afternoon was free time to further explore Vienna. I headed up to the train station to make my reservations for the train to Florence after the river cruise, then headed over to the amusement park to ride the oldest surviving wooden car ferris wheel - the Wiener Riesenrad. The trip is just one very slow round on the giant wheel in a car with about ten other people, but it gives you a bird's eye over the city. There are cars on the wheel that can be booked for a special dinner or private party and I saw a couple go by with the white linens and wine glasses all set up. I walked back to the ship window shopping along the way and after being surrounded by easter decor for the past few weeks I broke down and bought an embroidered table cloth with bunnies and spring flowers - all set for next year at Easter. It was a very long day of walking, and my body was complaining as I did the final leg down the hill and to the dock. The answer, afternoon tea, hot shower and feet up for 15 minutes before it was time for early dinner as many were heading out for the optional tour of a Vienna Concert.
The concert was in the music hall where the Strauss brothers used to play in order to support the family when their father left. It was a delightful evening of entertainment, with Strauss and Mozart music, ballet and opera-operatta singers to give us a taste of Viennese culture. The evening concluded with another bus tour to enjoy the night lights on the ringroad as we headed back to the ship.
April 20 - Melk and Durnstein
During the night we cruised down the Danube, through locks and arrived at Melk as most of us were getting up and headed to breakfast. The morning tour had buses taking us up the hill to the Babenberg Castle that was eventually donated to the Benedictine monks who converted it into a fortified abbey. The 900 year old abbey, sits high atop the granite cliffs, crowned by towers, resplendent in a golden hue. Like many of the historic buildings it requires constant renovation, refurbishing so there is usually scaffolding and workers meticulously cleaning to preserve original structures. The abbey was huge, with room after room of treasures and the library and marble hall, the painted ceilings, and church were outstanding. I picked up a souvenier book as it is impossible to capture the scope with my small camera.
Back on board we set sail through the scenic Wachau Valley (a UNESCO World Heritage listed region) and, as a change of pace, lunch was offered on the sundeck with a very popular grilled hamburger station. Our next stop was the small town of Durnstein for the Domane Wachau winery tour...taste testing of four different white wines, then down to see how it is all made with the modern technology, huge oak barrels (which by the way have to be crawled into (via a small door at the bottom tap area of the barrel) to be meticulously cleaned by hand before each new harvest is put in). The tram took us back to the ship, while some opted to check out the town or hike up to the ruins of the castle where Richard the Lionheart, King of England was held for ransom for two years.
During cocktail hour we were treated to a historical sketch featuring the monarchs Empress Sissi and Emperor Franz Joseph. Dinner tonight was the Epicurean dinner, another set menu with matching wines for each course. Starting with "Gebackener Bergkase mit Prieselbeeren" which is deep fried breaded mountain cheese with cranberry jam, followed by seasonal salad mix with breaded fried chicken tossed with Syrian pumpkin oil vinaigrette, then beef consomme with sherry and a cheese stick, then the main course choice of roasted duck breast in Burgenland red wine sauce searved with braised red cabbage, sauteed cinnamon apple rings and dauphine potatoes, or Broiled filet of Hoki with apple horseradish, accompanied with root vegetables and herb-potato mash, and for dessert Creme brulee with bourbon and cappuccino icecream served in a honey tuile, then the cheese board and petit fours (like you have room for anything more). The idea is to have us try some of the local epicurean fare and wines to match, from the Austrian white with the cheese and salad appetizers, Austrian red with the main course and a Hungarian dessert wine to round things out.
Back on board we set sail through the scenic Wachau Valley (a UNESCO World Heritage listed region) and, as a change of pace, lunch was offered on the sundeck with a very popular grilled hamburger station. Our next stop was the small town of Durnstein for the Domane Wachau winery tour...taste testing of four different white wines, then down to see how it is all made with the modern technology, huge oak barrels (which by the way have to be crawled into (via a small door at the bottom tap area of the barrel) to be meticulously cleaned by hand before each new harvest is put in). The tram took us back to the ship, while some opted to check out the town or hike up to the ruins of the castle where Richard the Lionheart, King of England was held for ransom for two years.
During cocktail hour we were treated to a historical sketch featuring the monarchs Empress Sissi and Emperor Franz Joseph. Dinner tonight was the Epicurean dinner, another set menu with matching wines for each course. Starting with "Gebackener Bergkase mit Prieselbeeren" which is deep fried breaded mountain cheese with cranberry jam, followed by seasonal salad mix with breaded fried chicken tossed with Syrian pumpkin oil vinaigrette, then beef consomme with sherry and a cheese stick, then the main course choice of roasted duck breast in Burgenland red wine sauce searved with braised red cabbage, sauteed cinnamon apple rings and dauphine potatoes, or Broiled filet of Hoki with apple horseradish, accompanied with root vegetables and herb-potato mash, and for dessert Creme brulee with bourbon and cappuccino icecream served in a honey tuile, then the cheese board and petit fours (like you have room for anything more). The idea is to have us try some of the local epicurean fare and wines to match, from the Austrian white with the cheese and salad appetizers, Austrian red with the main course and a Hungarian dessert wine to round things out.
April 19 Day of Options
While cruising into Linz I was fascinated by the lighted buildings displays near where we docked - the screens of Ars Electronica and light display of Lentos Kunstmuseum. While the bulk of the cruise headed via bus to Salzburg for the day, or to the small Austrian towns of Steyr and Gmunden, I opted to stay and amuse myself in Linz. We were docked adjacent to one of the main squares in the old town, so only a five minute walk to the tourist information where I picked up a Linz Card for one day free access to the city transport systems and admission to key museums and tourist attractions.
A quick bus ride took me across the bridge to the ARS Electronica Center - the digital museum of the future. I had a hard time pulling myself out of the place as it is full of displays on the cutting edge of computer technology and applications in art, technology and social enterprise. I started in the Deep-Space room watching a couple of short animation pieces and then a beautiful short film (done by a Canadian) that had won the animation award during their annual festival the previous year. The guide encouraged me to return for the English deep-space show in an hour, and what a 3D treat it was as the room is extremely hi-tech, with multiple projections in super high definition, plus you can walk around in the images (almost like the holodeck on sci-fi programs) as we were taken by light speed through our universe and beyond. While based on strong foundations of science the film did have points where they had to imagine and created some really beautiful images (ie. convergence of multiple universes to the origin of our universe and others).
The research directions for computer technology, from robotic animals-pets that react to human interaction, to voice recognition technology that displays the emotion of the speaker on a robotic dummy face, giving more human interaction to skype type communication in the future. Robotics also figured heavily in advances to support the human body, hands, legs, eyes, hearts...And then there was the research on the concept of you dream it and the computer will design and deliver it via three dimensional printer. They have managed to deliver plastic product (dress and bowl). The theory is that eventually you can go on your computer and shop for your clothes and food and the printer would then just print it out. Sounds like a sci-fi replicator becoming reality. They also have the pixel city...a room where kids can build with big lego-type blocks their own city buildings...and more interactive displays that make it a very family friendly place.
The building is wrapped in screens, where each night the light show is on-going. It looks especially beautiful reflecting on the water.
Hunger finally sent me back to the main square, where I enjoyed a little Greek spanakopita with tsitsiki and a caffe latte while listening to three gypsy musicians - clarinet, guitar and bass. Next stop was the little train for the Linz sightseeing tour, around the new city hall, down old alleys, past churches old and new, historical buildings including Mozart house, where he once stayed for a time and thanked his host by writing an opera highlighting the city.
I then headed back to the ship to freshen up, have afternoon tea before heading over to the Lentos Kunstmuseum. The featured exhibition was Do What? Art Povera - with instillation pieces representing the movement from 1967 to 1972. It utilizes everyday things and materials, supposedly making them worthy as art - coal and plastic, plants and textiles, fire and ice - one of those art forms I have yet to appreciate. The other displays in the museum where more to my aesthetic and I especially liked MaoTseTung by Andy Warhol and the comedy of Gerhard Haderer (ie. group of hysterically laughing priests).
Somehow the day had evaporated and it was time to head back to the ship for dinner...and the evenings live entertainment a little jazz by the musical group "New Ohr Linz Dixie".
A quick bus ride took me across the bridge to the ARS Electronica Center - the digital museum of the future. I had a hard time pulling myself out of the place as it is full of displays on the cutting edge of computer technology and applications in art, technology and social enterprise. I started in the Deep-Space room watching a couple of short animation pieces and then a beautiful short film (done by a Canadian) that had won the animation award during their annual festival the previous year. The guide encouraged me to return for the English deep-space show in an hour, and what a 3D treat it was as the room is extremely hi-tech, with multiple projections in super high definition, plus you can walk around in the images (almost like the holodeck on sci-fi programs) as we were taken by light speed through our universe and beyond. While based on strong foundations of science the film did have points where they had to imagine and created some really beautiful images (ie. convergence of multiple universes to the origin of our universe and others).
The research directions for computer technology, from robotic animals-pets that react to human interaction, to voice recognition technology that displays the emotion of the speaker on a robotic dummy face, giving more human interaction to skype type communication in the future. Robotics also figured heavily in advances to support the human body, hands, legs, eyes, hearts...And then there was the research on the concept of you dream it and the computer will design and deliver it via three dimensional printer. They have managed to deliver plastic product (dress and bowl). The theory is that eventually you can go on your computer and shop for your clothes and food and the printer would then just print it out. Sounds like a sci-fi replicator becoming reality. They also have the pixel city...a room where kids can build with big lego-type blocks their own city buildings...and more interactive displays that make it a very family friendly place.
The building is wrapped in screens, where each night the light show is on-going. It looks especially beautiful reflecting on the water.
Hunger finally sent me back to the main square, where I enjoyed a little Greek spanakopita with tsitsiki and a caffe latte while listening to three gypsy musicians - clarinet, guitar and bass. Next stop was the little train for the Linz sightseeing tour, around the new city hall, down old alleys, past churches old and new, historical buildings including Mozart house, where he once stayed for a time and thanked his host by writing an opera highlighting the city.
I then headed back to the ship to freshen up, have afternoon tea before heading over to the Lentos Kunstmuseum. The featured exhibition was Do What? Art Povera - with instillation pieces representing the movement from 1967 to 1972. It utilizes everyday things and materials, supposedly making them worthy as art - coal and plastic, plants and textiles, fire and ice - one of those art forms I have yet to appreciate. The other displays in the museum where more to my aesthetic and I especially liked MaoTseTung by Andy Warhol and the comedy of Gerhard Haderer (ie. group of hysterically laughing priests).
Somehow the day had evaporated and it was time to head back to the ship for dinner...and the evenings live entertainment a little jazz by the musical group "New Ohr Linz Dixie".
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
April 18 Passau then cruising down the river
Following a sumptous breakfast buffet we were off on a walking tour of Passau. I joined the pacers group. I like the fact there is an option for those who may be a little slower or physically challenged, especially when it comes to climbing hills and wobbling about on cobblestones. We had an excellent guide whose obvious love of the city was reflected in her knowledge and background stories that brought the city to life...But it did not trigger any enthusiasm to do the Pilgrimage Walk up the 300 plus stairs praying at each step. The highlight was the visit to St. Stephans and the pipe organ. The church has the largest pipe organ in Europe, which is actually five organs linked and played by one organist. The pipes range from 6 cm to 11 meters and I wish I could remember exactly how many pipes, though 17000 plus seems to be sticking in my brain. I managed to find a CD of an organ concert in a souvenier shop (after a bit of a search) and that will serve as a reminder of the visit. There was limited access to the church due to holy week confessions slotted so we were lucky to get in to see the lavish church and one of a kind organ.
We were then left on our own to wander back to the ship. I joined new friends Joy and Rob for a capuccino and torte in a lovely cafe just off the square. It had these huge chairs that felt like you were sitting on a throne as you ate the rich pastry.
We also stopped at the Glass Museum, which is tucked into the unassuming Hotel Wilder Mann. It was quite a surprise and well worth the five euro admission, as you found rooms full of glass treasures, tucked into every corner, up and down. It is actually an important research centre for European Glass from 1650 to 1950 with Baroque, Rococo, Empire, Biedermeier, Historism, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modernism pieces in the 30,000 glass pieces on exhibit. One of my favorite rooms was the beautiful cut glass crystal in a darkened room with blue backlighting that really highlighted the sparkle of the glass. Many of the hand painted pieces were exquisite as well though by the end we were all feeling a little overloaded by the variety, spectrum of sizes and designs.
It was all aboard for 2:45 p.m.as we sailed out of the city on three rivers, and onto the Danube with a last look back at the spires of Passau. The afternoon was spent relaxing as we cruised taking in the passing scenery on our way to Linz.
The evening was the Captains welcome cocktails in the lounge followed by his welcome dinner which is a set menu with the exception of choice of main course. Shall I give you a run down...three starters with a fine French white wine - appetizer of Charlotte potato with creme fraiche and golden pearls of Keta caviar, followed by a salad of string beans and salad leaves with cromesquis of braised oxtail, drizzled with walnut oil and sherry vinegar dressing, then Sauteed bay scallops on a bed of spinach leaves drizzled with Rhine wine Beurre Blanc...pineapple sorbet to clear the palate then choice of main, either roasted veal tenderloin with gremolata and natural jus, served with stir friend vegetables and truffle mashed potatoes, or sauteed butterfish with herb crust, presented on mixed vegetables, saffron potatoes and dried tomato butter - served with a fine French red wine. Then they bring on the dessert - honeycomb icecream served beside a Guanaja chocolate dome sprinkled with caramel sauce, followed by a selection of cheeses and to finish petit fours. The saving grace is that the various portion sizes of each item is small enough to allow you to make it through the elaborate menu.
Entertainment for the evening was a couple of fellows in lederhosen regaling us with Austro-Bavarian folk stories and music in the lounge as we continued to cruise into Linz.
We were then left on our own to wander back to the ship. I joined new friends Joy and Rob for a capuccino and torte in a lovely cafe just off the square. It had these huge chairs that felt like you were sitting on a throne as you ate the rich pastry.
We also stopped at the Glass Museum, which is tucked into the unassuming Hotel Wilder Mann. It was quite a surprise and well worth the five euro admission, as you found rooms full of glass treasures, tucked into every corner, up and down. It is actually an important research centre for European Glass from 1650 to 1950 with Baroque, Rococo, Empire, Biedermeier, Historism, Art Nouveau, Art Deco and Modernism pieces in the 30,000 glass pieces on exhibit. One of my favorite rooms was the beautiful cut glass crystal in a darkened room with blue backlighting that really highlighted the sparkle of the glass. Many of the hand painted pieces were exquisite as well though by the end we were all feeling a little overloaded by the variety, spectrum of sizes and designs.
It was all aboard for 2:45 p.m.as we sailed out of the city on three rivers, and onto the Danube with a last look back at the spires of Passau. The afternoon was spent relaxing as we cruised taking in the passing scenery on our way to Linz.
The evening was the Captains welcome cocktails in the lounge followed by his welcome dinner which is a set menu with the exception of choice of main course. Shall I give you a run down...three starters with a fine French white wine - appetizer of Charlotte potato with creme fraiche and golden pearls of Keta caviar, followed by a salad of string beans and salad leaves with cromesquis of braised oxtail, drizzled with walnut oil and sherry vinegar dressing, then Sauteed bay scallops on a bed of spinach leaves drizzled with Rhine wine Beurre Blanc...pineapple sorbet to clear the palate then choice of main, either roasted veal tenderloin with gremolata and natural jus, served with stir friend vegetables and truffle mashed potatoes, or sauteed butterfish with herb crust, presented on mixed vegetables, saffron potatoes and dried tomato butter - served with a fine French red wine. Then they bring on the dessert - honeycomb icecream served beside a Guanaja chocolate dome sprinkled with caramel sauce, followed by a selection of cheeses and to finish petit fours. The saving grace is that the various portion sizes of each item is small enough to allow you to make it through the elaborate menu.
Entertainment for the evening was a couple of fellows in lederhosen regaling us with Austro-Bavarian folk stories and music in the lounge as we continued to cruise into Linz.
April 17 Travel to Enchanting Danube Cruise
Half day and a couple of train connections - Saalfelden to Salzburg, then Salzburg to Weis, then Weis to Passau - and a quick cab ride to board the Enchanting Danube river cruise on Uniworlds River Beatrice.
I am on the upper floor this time, so I have a nice big patio door window that I can open - sit at the table or lay on the bed and watch the scenery sail by.
Just had time to catch late (2 p.m.) lunch in the lounge before the cabin was ready and I could settle into my new home for the next week. As a second time cruiser I am now a member of the River Heritage Club and there were some welcome gifts waiting in the room - a large tote bag and a CD of the Best of Strauss, along with a plate of fruit and cookies.
As the sun was shining I headed up to the top deck to watch the busses arrive with other passengers and check in with my GPS Spot. Very comfy in the deck chair, just sitting in the sun, almost sleeping when a gust of wind sent the shade on the chair flopping down on my face...a hint to head into the lounge for the welcome safety spiel. Just time to check emails and it was time for dinner.
Dinner is a leisurely affair with choice of appetizer, soup or salad, followed by main course and then dessert. I tried the Shrimp cocktail chef style (with apple and celery strips in brandy cocktail sauce), Bavarian beer and garlic cream soup, seared fillet of Victora perch on sauteed Asian vegetables in a teriyaki sauce and basmati rice, and for dessert the Ice Cup Bayernwald (Champagne truffle and hazelnut icecream with chocolate sauce, whipped cream, chocolate chips, marinated cherries and blueberries). If that does not make your mouth water there were a couple other choices to suit any palate.
Unlike the big cruise ships with thousands of passengers, huge buffets and restaurant options, river cruising focusses on a smaller scale and higher quality in my opinion. Fine leisurely dining that lets you get to know your table mates and relax into the ships laid back pace. While dining the ship repositioned to the dock downtown in Passau, ready for us to explore the city tomorrow.
I am on the upper floor this time, so I have a nice big patio door window that I can open - sit at the table or lay on the bed and watch the scenery sail by.
Just had time to catch late (2 p.m.) lunch in the lounge before the cabin was ready and I could settle into my new home for the next week. As a second time cruiser I am now a member of the River Heritage Club and there were some welcome gifts waiting in the room - a large tote bag and a CD of the Best of Strauss, along with a plate of fruit and cookies.
As the sun was shining I headed up to the top deck to watch the busses arrive with other passengers and check in with my GPS Spot. Very comfy in the deck chair, just sitting in the sun, almost sleeping when a gust of wind sent the shade on the chair flopping down on my face...a hint to head into the lounge for the welcome safety spiel. Just time to check emails and it was time for dinner.
Dinner is a leisurely affair with choice of appetizer, soup or salad, followed by main course and then dessert. I tried the Shrimp cocktail chef style (with apple and celery strips in brandy cocktail sauce), Bavarian beer and garlic cream soup, seared fillet of Victora perch on sauteed Asian vegetables in a teriyaki sauce and basmati rice, and for dessert the Ice Cup Bayernwald (Champagne truffle and hazelnut icecream with chocolate sauce, whipped cream, chocolate chips, marinated cherries and blueberries). If that does not make your mouth water there were a couple other choices to suit any palate.
Unlike the big cruise ships with thousands of passengers, huge buffets and restaurant options, river cruising focusses on a smaller scale and higher quality in my opinion. Fine leisurely dining that lets you get to know your table mates and relax into the ships laid back pace. While dining the ship repositioned to the dock downtown in Passau, ready for us to explore the city tomorrow.
APRIL 16 Taking care of business
Took a final tour around town, including a trip to the post office to send home a parcel with books, papers, etc. collected in my travels over the past few weeks. Postage is definitely pricey in Europe as the counter clerk apologized for what she had to ask me to pay. For example a stamp to send a postcard International is 1.4 Euro or about two Canadian Dollars - for a postcard! I will not be complaining about Canadian postal rates any time soon.
My final tour included one more visit to the church where families were out and about tending to the gravesites, watering and pruning, etc. One last coffee and tort then it was laundry duty and time to pack.
I had another lovely dinner of sesame seed crusted tilapia and crispy fresh white asparagus. Then it was early to bed as I head out to catch a train in the morning.
My final tour included one more visit to the church where families were out and about tending to the gravesites, watering and pruning, etc. One last coffee and tort then it was laundry duty and time to pack.
I had another lovely dinner of sesame seed crusted tilapia and crispy fresh white asparagus. Then it was early to bed as I head out to catch a train in the morning.
APRIL 15 Cure for Cabin Fever
I did say this would be a relax week...Today dawned sunny though chilly. I bundled up and headed out on a hike following the stream from in town out into the country for a few houars. There is something irrisistable about walking along with the birds singing, squirrels chattering, waters babbling in crisp mountain air, with the snow melting and sun shining. All is well with my world...and the herb dressed lamb at dinner was done to perfection and so tasty. Kudoes to the chef in the Alpenland Sporthotel restaurant for a job well done.
April 14 Winter Wonderland
White, white everywhere making all those skiing enthusiasts in the area happy. Maria Alm and most other area ski hills had just closed a week earlier but glacier skiing is still a go.
By afternoon the sun is struggling to come out and things are melting. I took the opportunity to walk into the village to the bakery cafe for a nice cup of capuccino and strudel and a big dough pretzel to snack on later.
Then there was dinner...and ill mannered, loud British-accent boys (the four little princes were probably aged 8-12) whose mothers did nothing to rein them in. They managed to give me a headache so I took my dessert to my room rather than spend anymore time in the same room with them. From comments from other diners later, I was not the only one whose meal they managed to make unpleasant in the dining room that evening. NOTE TO PARENTS - teach your children manners and the difference and behavior for Macdonalds versus finer dining.
By afternoon the sun is struggling to come out and things are melting. I took the opportunity to walk into the village to the bakery cafe for a nice cup of capuccino and strudel and a big dough pretzel to snack on later.
Then there was dinner...and ill mannered, loud British-accent boys (the four little princes were probably aged 8-12) whose mothers did nothing to rein them in. They managed to give me a headache so I took my dessert to my room rather than spend anymore time in the same room with them. From comments from other diners later, I was not the only one whose meal they managed to make unpleasant in the dining room that evening. NOTE TO PARENTS - teach your children manners and the difference and behavior for Macdonalds versus finer dining.
Saturday, April 23, 2011
APRIL 13...ah-h-h SPRING
You know it is springtime in the mountains when you wake to frosted trees and falling snow. It may be pretty and picturesque bit it makes it a definite stay in and do nothing day.
I have my Mermaids and Dolphins tarot deck with me and laid out a reading before heading down to use the computer. When I returned the chambermaid was excited about my cards (from what I could decifer from her quick German-Austrian chatter) - excited in a good way I think. For the rest of the week she took very good care of my room (extra pillows, clean towels and she even folded the duvet into a big heart one day). Either she thought I was special or maybe she thought I was a witch and wanted to keep me happy.
It was a sloth day, other than doing the laundry. I just watched snow fall and CNN news, and snooker in German (though the players were both Asian).
Between Japan, Ghadafi, and Syria the news is fairly depressing, so it helped to have CNN (BBC) balance it with insider tips and tales on the upcoming royal nuptials.
I have my Mermaids and Dolphins tarot deck with me and laid out a reading before heading down to use the computer. When I returned the chambermaid was excited about my cards (from what I could decifer from her quick German-Austrian chatter) - excited in a good way I think. For the rest of the week she took very good care of my room (extra pillows, clean towels and she even folded the duvet into a big heart one day). Either she thought I was special or maybe she thought I was a witch and wanted to keep me happy.
It was a sloth day, other than doing the laundry. I just watched snow fall and CNN news, and snooker in German (though the players were both Asian).
Between Japan, Ghadafi, and Syria the news is fairly depressing, so it helped to have CNN (BBC) balance it with insider tips and tales on the upcoming royal nuptials.
April 12 - Maria Alm week for rest and reflection
I woke well rested, so after a quick breakfast and coffee I headed into the village. Though sunny it was crisp (cool) and windy as I wandered the village, only to find most of the shops and restaurants were closed until two in the afternoon as they take a long lunch hour (plus many businesses were taking advantage of the lull between ski season and the summer season for their own holiday breaks).
Ended up at the Maria Alm Church, a pilgrimage church from what I could gather and after my visit I can understand why. Though unassuming on the outside, it is beautiful and very peaceful inside. I found it to be a special place. Though I have now seen several magnificent cathedrals/churches, this was the first that really touched me. Initially, the human skulls on the shelves in the niche below the statue of Christ, seemed somewhat gruesome and out of place but the connection and peace inside outweighed the oddity.
The graveyard has mostly ornate wrought-iron markers on family plots that all seemed to be very well cared for with flowers blooming and trimmed grass walkways between each site, not a weed to be found. The church grounds also feature a second more modern design chapel, a stone path labyrinth, shrine and a monument to those lost in the World Wars.
It had clouded and started to rain as I left the Church so I popped in to a pub/restaurant for a hot bowl of gulash (that is how it was spelled on the menu), coffee and Eisnacher Tort (a spicy cakem, layered with cream filling and iced with sugar icing and chocolate).
The rain let up long enough for me to meander back to the grocery store to pick up a few provisions, so I don't have to eat all my meals in restaurants - just the basics, cheese, cold cuts, bread, jam, granola, yoghurt, fruit, juice, canned cherries and a local beer.
Back at the Alpenland Sporthotel, I checked out the facilities from the sauna and swimming pool, to the "skittle alley" (what they call bowling), pinball and pool table. Spent a little time catching up on my travel journal and world news as the room had CNN (BBC) in English on the TV.
Ended up at the Maria Alm Church, a pilgrimage church from what I could gather and after my visit I can understand why. Though unassuming on the outside, it is beautiful and very peaceful inside. I found it to be a special place. Though I have now seen several magnificent cathedrals/churches, this was the first that really touched me. Initially, the human skulls on the shelves in the niche below the statue of Christ, seemed somewhat gruesome and out of place but the connection and peace inside outweighed the oddity.
The graveyard has mostly ornate wrought-iron markers on family plots that all seemed to be very well cared for with flowers blooming and trimmed grass walkways between each site, not a weed to be found. The church grounds also feature a second more modern design chapel, a stone path labyrinth, shrine and a monument to those lost in the World Wars.
It had clouded and started to rain as I left the Church so I popped in to a pub/restaurant for a hot bowl of gulash (that is how it was spelled on the menu), coffee and Eisnacher Tort (a spicy cakem, layered with cream filling and iced with sugar icing and chocolate).
The rain let up long enough for me to meander back to the grocery store to pick up a few provisions, so I don't have to eat all my meals in restaurants - just the basics, cheese, cold cuts, bread, jam, granola, yoghurt, fruit, juice, canned cherries and a local beer.
Back at the Alpenland Sporthotel, I checked out the facilities from the sauna and swimming pool, to the "skittle alley" (what they call bowling), pinball and pool table. Spent a little time catching up on my travel journal and world news as the room had CNN (BBC) in English on the TV.
APRIL 11 - Train Across Germany
From 8:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. the day was all about trains and making the right connections. Achim to Hannover, Hannover to Munich, Munich to Salzburg, Salzburg to Saalfelden, Austria and each leg was on a different kind of train from the local TRN, Intercity Express (ICE), RailJet to the Regional Express in Austria (REX). And the trains went from fast to super fast to the local "milk run" as we dropped students off in several small communities as we headed deeper into the mountains.
It was another beautiful clear day to enjoy the changing scenery - hills, farms, flatlands, vineyards to industrial parks, towns and cities, to the foothills, forests, craggy peaks, lakes, streams and rushing rivers in the mountains. It was a kaleidoscope of ever changing images. Just to give you a sample, on the last leg of the journey Salzburg's industrial area gave way to suburbs, and around a bend near Lend there was a teepee (that's right - TEEPEE), then a castle up the hill from Bruck-Fusch (or was that Werfun) and then there were the swans on the beautiful lake at Zell am See.
At any rate, I was glad to finally arrive in Saalfelden and catch a taxi for the ten minute trip to Maria Alm - just in time for a late supper, unpack and to bed.
It was another beautiful clear day to enjoy the changing scenery - hills, farms, flatlands, vineyards to industrial parks, towns and cities, to the foothills, forests, craggy peaks, lakes, streams and rushing rivers in the mountains. It was a kaleidoscope of ever changing images. Just to give you a sample, on the last leg of the journey Salzburg's industrial area gave way to suburbs, and around a bend near Lend there was a teepee (that's right - TEEPEE), then a castle up the hill from Bruck-Fusch (or was that Werfun) and then there were the swans on the beautiful lake at Zell am See.
At any rate, I was glad to finally arrive in Saalfelden and catch a taxi for the ten minute trip to Maria Alm - just in time for a late supper, unpack and to bed.
Friday, April 22, 2011
APRIL 10 North Sea
Today is another road trip to the North Sea, in the vicinity of where Marianne lived in her younger years. We headed out on the Autobahn, and contrary to my misconception, most ot the Autobahn now has posted speed limits to be observed. You see a lot of wind turbines, from singles, to a half a dozen and the further north we go the bigger the wind farms seem to become. Germany has some of the first wind farms and the country is actively embracing alternative energy sources, including solar and biofuels.
Our first stop was the small harbour of Bremenhof where the Weser river merges with another and heads out to the sea. The harbour also has one of the three immigration halls in the north, lighthouses and the Dome. As Harold explained, the Dome covers every climate zone with accompaning plants - from rainforests to desert under its roof. Unfortunately it is not open on Sundays. We watched a sailboat pass through as the bridge and road above rotated to open the gate to let the boat into the canel/river into the city. There was a white dog, similar to Candy a Wheaton Terrier of a friend, who was running up and down the ship as if it was the Captain of the boat, checking that all was good to go through the gate before heading back to its people.
We headed further north to Cuxhaven and the North Sea, with warm sunny weather and very little wind (which is unusual for this coast noted Janne). They have built about 12 km of dike to protect the city from the sea storms and flooding and you have to go over the dike to get to the beach. Surprisingly, you have to pay to go to the beach - three euros per person I think. We arrived when the tide was out and the huge mud flats evident. People walk way out in the mud/sand before they hit water, and kids were enjoying playing in the "mud". It was a very strange sight to see people up to the ankles in muck and right behind them is a huge container ship (on the sea) headed to harbour.
We stopped for lunch (seafood pasta with squid, shrimp and clams and beer - always the local brew to taste test. After lunch the tide was starting to creep back in along with a rolling fog , despite the sunny skies. It was very surreal as the water crept over the mud, with puffs of fog, bright sun shining and the gulls diving to feast on whatever was out on the mud or coming in on the sea water.
On the way back to the car, Janne grabbed another area specialty - Krabben - a kind of shrimp, very firm that is peeleed and boiled in salt water. She recalls peeling them by the bucket full, fresh off the boats as a youngster.
We headed further up the coast to the harbour with the fishing fleet, warehouses, fish wholesalers, and fish restaurants galore. It is also the harbour where the big container ships come in to unload. Despite numerous signs stating VERBOTEN, there were a number of fishermen trying their luck off the docks. We also stopped at another immigration hall - the departure point for many immigrants headed to New York. The third immigration hall was in Hambourg and that is where my grandparents left Germany for Canada. My host Harold's father Hubert had accompanied them and had spoken of the day and how hard and heart-wrenching it had been to say goodbye. Hubert and my grandfather were brothers with only a year between their births and they had been best friends as well as brothers, Harold said.
It was then time to say goodbye to the North Sea and head back to the Autobahn, Achim and a final supper before packing.
The next morning, after an early breakfast, it was off to the Achim train station for final farewells as I headed across Germany to Austria (Saalfelden) about 1000 km by train.
I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to see some of my grandparent's homeland, and to meet relatives who have so graciously shared their cities, memories and homes. It is a time that will provide memories for years to come. THANK YOU ALL FOR THIS SPECIAL JOURNEY.
Our first stop was the small harbour of Bremenhof where the Weser river merges with another and heads out to the sea. The harbour also has one of the three immigration halls in the north, lighthouses and the Dome. As Harold explained, the Dome covers every climate zone with accompaning plants - from rainforests to desert under its roof. Unfortunately it is not open on Sundays. We watched a sailboat pass through as the bridge and road above rotated to open the gate to let the boat into the canel/river into the city. There was a white dog, similar to Candy a Wheaton Terrier of a friend, who was running up and down the ship as if it was the Captain of the boat, checking that all was good to go through the gate before heading back to its people.
We headed further north to Cuxhaven and the North Sea, with warm sunny weather and very little wind (which is unusual for this coast noted Janne). They have built about 12 km of dike to protect the city from the sea storms and flooding and you have to go over the dike to get to the beach. Surprisingly, you have to pay to go to the beach - three euros per person I think. We arrived when the tide was out and the huge mud flats evident. People walk way out in the mud/sand before they hit water, and kids were enjoying playing in the "mud". It was a very strange sight to see people up to the ankles in muck and right behind them is a huge container ship (on the sea) headed to harbour.
We stopped for lunch (seafood pasta with squid, shrimp and clams and beer - always the local brew to taste test. After lunch the tide was starting to creep back in along with a rolling fog , despite the sunny skies. It was very surreal as the water crept over the mud, with puffs of fog, bright sun shining and the gulls diving to feast on whatever was out on the mud or coming in on the sea water.
On the way back to the car, Janne grabbed another area specialty - Krabben - a kind of shrimp, very firm that is peeleed and boiled in salt water. She recalls peeling them by the bucket full, fresh off the boats as a youngster.
We headed further up the coast to the harbour with the fishing fleet, warehouses, fish wholesalers, and fish restaurants galore. It is also the harbour where the big container ships come in to unload. Despite numerous signs stating VERBOTEN, there were a number of fishermen trying their luck off the docks. We also stopped at another immigration hall - the departure point for many immigrants headed to New York. The third immigration hall was in Hambourg and that is where my grandparents left Germany for Canada. My host Harold's father Hubert had accompanied them and had spoken of the day and how hard and heart-wrenching it had been to say goodbye. Hubert and my grandfather were brothers with only a year between their births and they had been best friends as well as brothers, Harold said.
It was then time to say goodbye to the North Sea and head back to the Autobahn, Achim and a final supper before packing.
The next morning, after an early breakfast, it was off to the Achim train station for final farewells as I headed across Germany to Austria (Saalfelden) about 1000 km by train.
I feel blessed to have had the opportunity to see some of my grandparent's homeland, and to meet relatives who have so graciously shared their cities, memories and homes. It is a time that will provide memories for years to come. THANK YOU ALL FOR THIS SPECIAL JOURNEY.
APRIL 9 Bremen and the Moors
Tried "hackspeter" - raw ground meat with chopped onions that you spread like jam on bread - it is actually very tasty though you have to be up early to go to the butchers to get it fresh, along with a stop at the bakery for the great buns and breads. After "fruhstuk" we headed over to the Achim Farmer's Market with flowers, produce, eggs, cheese, fresh fish, food stalls - everything you would need for your weekly shopping. I also took a tour through the butchers shop with the vast variety of deli cuts, sausages and meats - smelled spicy and smoky. I guess one of the reasons the cold cuts are so great is the old family recipes and few preservatives as they are constantly made fresh.
Next stop was the City of Bremen and the old town centre. Mercedes just happened to be having a celebration of their 125 anniversary with a display of old vehicles, eats and entertainment. Tried "labskaus" - mashed potatoes with raw ground meat, herring and a pickle topped with a fried egg. It looks like a dog's breakfast but tastes great. I also enjoyed the entertainment, a cajun/bayou english group that I could sing along to. Mercedes has a production plant near Bremen and employs a lot of people in the area.
We headed back onto the square to see the four musicians of Bremen, statue of Roland the Protector, the old Rathaus (name for the mayor/council chambers) and over to the Dom cathedral where protesters were out front and the doors were closed for a service. We headed into "Schnoor" the oldest section of town with narow cobblestone streets lined with shops (including a stop at the Hachez Bremer specialty chocolate shop). We ended up at Schruters, one of the best restaurants in Bremen, early enough to snag a table in the sunny covered courtyard for a cozy and relaxing lunch. It seems wherever we go Janne runs into friends and the restaurant was no exception as her good friend arrived with her family as well...it gives the feeling that wherever you go it is like a friendly small village, as you greet your friends.
Our next point to see was Bottcherstrasse, not quite the spelling but you would need a German keyboard to get it right. It was designed down to every detail in the early 1900's by Hoetger, with renaissance reflections and with niches for artwork. We were treated to the Gockinspiel concert (bells) while a relief panel rotated highlighting conquerers of the ocean (ie. Lindberg and the first flight over).
We headed back to the parkade via the walk of fame with hand prints of famous Bremers - arts, sports, etc.
Next stop was for coffee at the home of friends, Jurgen and Wilma. The couple transformed the 1882 barn along with the farmhouse where Wilma was raised into their lovely home. The kitchen and livingroom is an open, airy design with traces of its previous barn use in the wooded pillars chewed by the cows. From there we drove through the pastoral scenery to Worpswede Backenhoff from Vogeler - home/retreat/gallery of the artist and an area with a vibrant arts community. We stopped long enough in town for a little shopping and I bought a set of prints that depict much of the north rural scenery.
Our drive continued into the moor lands where we stopped at a small museum about peat moss harvesting - killing, hard work for those whose livelihood depended on it. As the sun was setting we drove back to Achim and supper - German beer, wurst and potato salad.
Next stop was the City of Bremen and the old town centre. Mercedes just happened to be having a celebration of their 125 anniversary with a display of old vehicles, eats and entertainment. Tried "labskaus" - mashed potatoes with raw ground meat, herring and a pickle topped with a fried egg. It looks like a dog's breakfast but tastes great. I also enjoyed the entertainment, a cajun/bayou english group that I could sing along to. Mercedes has a production plant near Bremen and employs a lot of people in the area.
We headed back onto the square to see the four musicians of Bremen, statue of Roland the Protector, the old Rathaus (name for the mayor/council chambers) and over to the Dom cathedral where protesters were out front and the doors were closed for a service. We headed into "Schnoor" the oldest section of town with narow cobblestone streets lined with shops (including a stop at the Hachez Bremer specialty chocolate shop). We ended up at Schruters, one of the best restaurants in Bremen, early enough to snag a table in the sunny covered courtyard for a cozy and relaxing lunch. It seems wherever we go Janne runs into friends and the restaurant was no exception as her good friend arrived with her family as well...it gives the feeling that wherever you go it is like a friendly small village, as you greet your friends.
Our next point to see was Bottcherstrasse, not quite the spelling but you would need a German keyboard to get it right. It was designed down to every detail in the early 1900's by Hoetger, with renaissance reflections and with niches for artwork. We were treated to the Gockinspiel concert (bells) while a relief panel rotated highlighting conquerers of the ocean (ie. Lindberg and the first flight over).
We headed back to the parkade via the walk of fame with hand prints of famous Bremers - arts, sports, etc.
Next stop was for coffee at the home of friends, Jurgen and Wilma. The couple transformed the 1882 barn along with the farmhouse where Wilma was raised into their lovely home. The kitchen and livingroom is an open, airy design with traces of its previous barn use in the wooded pillars chewed by the cows. From there we drove through the pastoral scenery to Worpswede Backenhoff from Vogeler - home/retreat/gallery of the artist and an area with a vibrant arts community. We stopped long enough in town for a little shopping and I bought a set of prints that depict much of the north rural scenery.
Our drive continued into the moor lands where we stopped at a small museum about peat moss harvesting - killing, hard work for those whose livelihood depended on it. As the sun was setting we drove back to Achim and supper - German beer, wurst and potato salad.
APRIL 8 Berlin to Bremen and Achim
It was farewell to Claudia, after a final breakfast feast, as Siegfried dropped me at the South Berlin train station for my journey to Bremen, and after farewell hugs he headed off to work. At the other end, Bremen, I was met with hugs and roses as cousins Harold and wife Marianne, aka Janne, were waiting on the platform. We drove to their home in Achim, a town of about 30,000, for "mttensup" or in my terms a midday feast. Janne is an excellent cook and we enjoyed German wedding soup, meats, cheeses, potato salad, the always exceptional breads and chocolate pudding. After that we needed a walk about their properties and neighborhood. My hosts plan to give me a taste of everyday life in Germany along with the sites of the north rural, towns and cities.
We began with a stop at a local garden centre, where we were met by a moose topiary, though maybe it was a reindeer, depending on your cultural background and references. Flowers, herbs, shrubs and trees, pond plants and exotics, cactus to air orchids, there was a broad range of choices for green thumbs.
Next stop was the rural village of Fischerhuder, where there are more horses than people, according to Harold. It is also home to a a great little restaurant with the BEST TORTES, made fresh on site. There is a buffet of these wonderful cakes, and even better they let you have two half pieces to make up your one cake to go with your coffee. Between the three of us I got to taste six different exquisite kinds. My choices were cappucino, and an apricot liquer tort - SCHMECKT GUT!
After that wonderful sugar rush, another walk was called for and we set off to the local church, again several hundrend years old but with bright blue pews. It is also where they honor Cato Bontjes von Beck, a 23 year old student hung by Hitler for handing out pamphlets on the street. Her poem, "The Cloud" follows:
I am the daughter
of earth and water,
and the nursling of the sky;
I pass through the pores
of the ocean and shores;
I change - but I cannot die.
We also walked over to a local artists' gallery/publishing place for books, cards, calendars featuring artworks. While Harold and I headed into the loft to view the current exhibition of paintings, Janne browsed the books. She found a great book on Germany that she gifted to me (again I am being spoiled rotten by my European family). We finished with a drive about the village over an old bridge with the remains of an old waterwheel, hand pump and then along the rural lanes back to Achim. I love that so many of the rural roads are like driving down a tunnel as the trees tower and arch over the roadway...once all the leaves are out it would be even more beautiful.
Back in Achim we headed over the Weser River for another angle on the town and picking out their property along the high bank. We sat by the river as a big barge passed, and I noted the grasses hanging off the fences, remains of flooding earlier.
The tour of Achim included the town's windmill which has been preserved by a local service group and is used for small social gatherings. Harold showed me where he was raised, the school where he taught history and geography for many years and the church where his children and he were baptised and confirmed. We were very lucky as the bells started to toll and the doors were open when we got to the church, so I could see the inside and the lovely pipe organ, which seem so common in the churches here.
By then it had been a long day and it was home for supper and another local specialty usually reserved for Sunday dinner - Braten (roast pork), with all the fixings.
We began with a stop at a local garden centre, where we were met by a moose topiary, though maybe it was a reindeer, depending on your cultural background and references. Flowers, herbs, shrubs and trees, pond plants and exotics, cactus to air orchids, there was a broad range of choices for green thumbs.
Next stop was the rural village of Fischerhuder, where there are more horses than people, according to Harold. It is also home to a a great little restaurant with the BEST TORTES, made fresh on site. There is a buffet of these wonderful cakes, and even better they let you have two half pieces to make up your one cake to go with your coffee. Between the three of us I got to taste six different exquisite kinds. My choices were cappucino, and an apricot liquer tort - SCHMECKT GUT!
After that wonderful sugar rush, another walk was called for and we set off to the local church, again several hundrend years old but with bright blue pews. It is also where they honor Cato Bontjes von Beck, a 23 year old student hung by Hitler for handing out pamphlets on the street. Her poem, "The Cloud" follows:
I am the daughter
of earth and water,
and the nursling of the sky;
I pass through the pores
of the ocean and shores;
I change - but I cannot die.
We also walked over to a local artists' gallery/publishing place for books, cards, calendars featuring artworks. While Harold and I headed into the loft to view the current exhibition of paintings, Janne browsed the books. She found a great book on Germany that she gifted to me (again I am being spoiled rotten by my European family). We finished with a drive about the village over an old bridge with the remains of an old waterwheel, hand pump and then along the rural lanes back to Achim. I love that so many of the rural roads are like driving down a tunnel as the trees tower and arch over the roadway...once all the leaves are out it would be even more beautiful.
Back in Achim we headed over the Weser River for another angle on the town and picking out their property along the high bank. We sat by the river as a big barge passed, and I noted the grasses hanging off the fences, remains of flooding earlier.
The tour of Achim included the town's windmill which has been preserved by a local service group and is used for small social gatherings. Harold showed me where he was raised, the school where he taught history and geography for many years and the church where his children and he were baptised and confirmed. We were very lucky as the bells started to toll and the doors were open when we got to the church, so I could see the inside and the lovely pipe organ, which seem so common in the churches here.
By then it had been a long day and it was home for supper and another local specialty usually reserved for Sunday dinner - Braten (roast pork), with all the fixings.
April 7 Museum Day in Berlin
I should mention I am being spoiled by my new friends/family in Berlin. When asked the innocent question what I usually eat for breakfast, I named a few alternatives I might eat. For example yoghurt and fruit, or toast and an egg or cheese, or maybe a bowl of porridge. The next day all those options, with the exception of the porridge, were on the table, plus various cold cuts and Siegfried had picked up fresh White Sausage that I must try. It is a special seasoned port sausage that you boil then suck out of the sausage skin and is very tasty. Who knew they would put it all before me, when anything would have done fine. Claudia said it gave Siegfried and excuse to shop and eat, which he loves to do...I was just awed by the assortment of food on my private buffet.
After breakfast I head out via the bus and underground to museum island. I bought a museum pass which gives me access to 60 some museums in Berlin and the Island itself has five museums. The pass is more economical if you plan to attend at least two museums. The Boden famed for its sculptures, Pergammon with amazing ancient Roman, Babylonian, Macedonian artificats including the huge alter and gates, and the Neues Museum with a great collection of Egyptian exhibits and papyrus scrolls were highlights. If you are ever in Berlin the Pergammon should not be missed...it also had Syrian and Islamic cultural exhibits with beautiful Persian carpets, dieties and carved wooden relics.
Lunch was the Egyptian Sampler in the Neues Museum Cafe, though it seemed quite Greek to me with hummus, tabouli, tsitsiki, turkish bread and red lentil soup. From there it was over to the National Gallery which unfortunately was not honoring the museum card as they had a special exhibit of the artist, and excuse my spelling, Wagner with an admission charge. I am not a fan of his work so I opted to head over to the Dom cathedral. Got sidetracked and took a canal cruise which was almost like a private excursion as there were only five passengers on the boat as we cruised by many sights from another perspective than via the streets.
The white squares with black cross on the canal wall was a solemn reminder of those who lost their lives trying to escape the east via the waterway. All the museums and the canal cruise have English option audio systems that keep you well informed on what you are seeing. The museums system especially allow you to wander at your own pace, just key in the number code at an exhibit and you get to hear the details.
The canal cruise ended nest to the Dom and I just had time to explore before sitting down for the forty five minute Evensong service which is in German and English on Thursday. The huge pipe organ music was wonderful as the low booming notes resonated through your body. It was then time to head home for my last night in Berlin and the companionship of family.
After breakfast I head out via the bus and underground to museum island. I bought a museum pass which gives me access to 60 some museums in Berlin and the Island itself has five museums. The pass is more economical if you plan to attend at least two museums. The Boden famed for its sculptures, Pergammon with amazing ancient Roman, Babylonian, Macedonian artificats including the huge alter and gates, and the Neues Museum with a great collection of Egyptian exhibits and papyrus scrolls were highlights. If you are ever in Berlin the Pergammon should not be missed...it also had Syrian and Islamic cultural exhibits with beautiful Persian carpets, dieties and carved wooden relics.
Lunch was the Egyptian Sampler in the Neues Museum Cafe, though it seemed quite Greek to me with hummus, tabouli, tsitsiki, turkish bread and red lentil soup. From there it was over to the National Gallery which unfortunately was not honoring the museum card as they had a special exhibit of the artist, and excuse my spelling, Wagner with an admission charge. I am not a fan of his work so I opted to head over to the Dom cathedral. Got sidetracked and took a canal cruise which was almost like a private excursion as there were only five passengers on the boat as we cruised by many sights from another perspective than via the streets.
The white squares with black cross on the canal wall was a solemn reminder of those who lost their lives trying to escape the east via the waterway. All the museums and the canal cruise have English option audio systems that keep you well informed on what you are seeing. The museums system especially allow you to wander at your own pace, just key in the number code at an exhibit and you get to hear the details.
The canal cruise ended nest to the Dom and I just had time to explore before sitting down for the forty five minute Evensong service which is in German and English on Thursday. The huge pipe organ music was wonderful as the low booming notes resonated through your body. It was then time to head home for my last night in Berlin and the companionship of family.
Friday, April 15, 2011
Berlin - April 6
My host took a day off work and we headed out to Potsdam (about 30 km out of Berlin) ~ it is also known as the Berlin Hollywood because of all the movies filmed in the area. We got tied up in a traffic jam as police detoured vehicles over a large area for a bomb disposal. We heard later on the news a 250 kg bomb from WWII was found in a residential area, requiring clearing the area while the specialists defused and disposed of the bomb. Apparently it is not uncommon to still find bombs even 50 plus years after the war ended. Definitely an unexpected experience, and not on any tourist information.
We eventualy arrived at the magnificent palaces of Schloss Sanssouci (French for 'free of care' or as Siegfriend put it 'No Worries'). It was a summer home for the Prussian Kings with the first palace built in the mid-1700's for King Frederick (he is buried there with graves of his favorite dogs) 'without pomp and splendor' as the king had requested. On his humble grave slab were raw potatoes, a reminder of his legacy. The story goes that he ordered the farmers to grow potatoes but they did not want to change their way of farming. So the king had fields planted and guards posted to protect the precious potatoes (though he told the guards to look the other way if 'thieves' came to steal the potatoes). And the farmers did come and steal the king's potatoes and start growing them and they became a food staple.
Over the years additions to the palaces, more gardens, vineyards and new palaces turned Sanssouci into a huge complex...fountains, windmill, Oriental pavilion - so the visit involved a lot of walking and the steps up to the original palace finished off my legs. We caught a public transit bus back to the parking lot and headed home.
The evening was highlighted by a 'Bavarian Feast'and of course the local beer. The platter for two had enough meat for a week - crispy pork shank, wursts, roast, chicken, potatoes, cooked purple cabbage side and coleslaw plus...though we tried valiantly we could not eat it all and had a big doggy bag to take home.
We eventualy arrived at the magnificent palaces of Schloss Sanssouci (French for 'free of care' or as Siegfriend put it 'No Worries'). It was a summer home for the Prussian Kings with the first palace built in the mid-1700's for King Frederick (he is buried there with graves of his favorite dogs) 'without pomp and splendor' as the king had requested. On his humble grave slab were raw potatoes, a reminder of his legacy. The story goes that he ordered the farmers to grow potatoes but they did not want to change their way of farming. So the king had fields planted and guards posted to protect the precious potatoes (though he told the guards to look the other way if 'thieves' came to steal the potatoes). And the farmers did come and steal the king's potatoes and start growing them and they became a food staple.
Over the years additions to the palaces, more gardens, vineyards and new palaces turned Sanssouci into a huge complex...fountains, windmill, Oriental pavilion - so the visit involved a lot of walking and the steps up to the original palace finished off my legs. We caught a public transit bus back to the parking lot and headed home.
The evening was highlighted by a 'Bavarian Feast'and of course the local beer. The platter for two had enough meat for a week - crispy pork shank, wursts, roast, chicken, potatoes, cooked purple cabbage side and coleslaw plus...though we tried valiantly we could not eat it all and had a big doggy bag to take home.
April 5 On to Berlin
Left Erfurt on the high speed train to Berlin. It doesn't feel like you're going 200 plus km as the scenery flows by. The train only seemed to slow through major cities and to let the occasional train pass. The rolling farmland gave way to the flatter and more industrial look as we headed into Berlin, a city of three million. I arrived shortly after noon at the central station, a big complex as it is a major train hub for the country.
Stopped for lunch at a creperie and gelato shop in the station - cherry crepes with creamy smooth ice cream - maybe not the most nutritious choice but certainly delicious.
Called my mom's cousins Claudia and Siegfried then took a cab over to their home - a lovely modern three bedroom two bath condo with deck-patio. Claudia had no sooner settled me into a bedroom then Siegfried arrived. After a quick coffee we headed out to see multiple sights. I had picked up a highlights of Berlin tourist information brochure at the station and my hosts happily took be about to many on the list, stopping for pictures along the way. Had stopped at the Berliner Dom but could not go in due to a special concert about to start requiring a pricey ticket. So our tour continued on to the Potsdamer Platz, a shopping mall decorated with huge easter eggs, each painted or decorated in different artistic manner...beautiful to a little over the top, the styles were interesting to see. From there we walked to the Sony Centre, another on the list of tourist must sees, and indulged in a dinner of one of Berlin's specialties ~ Currzwurst and a local beer.
Berlin may be one city but I found it visually still showing evidence of the east/west differences as the east prefabs, less green and international influences (ie. immigrant neighborhoods). Evidence of 'the wall' was pointed out as we drove several times over the brick/stone lines in pavement on the streets where the wall had previously stood. Siegfried said two experiences in his life he will never forget - the day the wall came down and secondly, dinner with seven princes (but that is another story). He was an excellent tour guide, giving background stories to go with the many famous buildings, monuments, etc we visited and answers for my continuous questions. To give a sampling of what we saw that afternoon and evening on my Berlin tour - the Brandenburger Tor (gates), Chancellor's official residence, Reichstasbebaude (seat of parliament), Charlotteburg Palace, Palace Bellevue (the official residence of the president of the Federal Republic - like the US White House), Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (bombed and left as a war memorial) along with the new octagonal church (a symbol of post war architecture), Triumphal Column, Radio Tower, Air Bridge monument, Check Point Charlie, plus mayor's homes and council chambers in various sectors of the city, concert hall, cultural centre, parks, people, bridges where protestors were martyred...a full day.
Stopped for lunch at a creperie and gelato shop in the station - cherry crepes with creamy smooth ice cream - maybe not the most nutritious choice but certainly delicious.
Called my mom's cousins Claudia and Siegfried then took a cab over to their home - a lovely modern three bedroom two bath condo with deck-patio. Claudia had no sooner settled me into a bedroom then Siegfried arrived. After a quick coffee we headed out to see multiple sights. I had picked up a highlights of Berlin tourist information brochure at the station and my hosts happily took be about to many on the list, stopping for pictures along the way. Had stopped at the Berliner Dom but could not go in due to a special concert about to start requiring a pricey ticket. So our tour continued on to the Potsdamer Platz, a shopping mall decorated with huge easter eggs, each painted or decorated in different artistic manner...beautiful to a little over the top, the styles were interesting to see. From there we walked to the Sony Centre, another on the list of tourist must sees, and indulged in a dinner of one of Berlin's specialties ~ Currzwurst and a local beer.
Berlin may be one city but I found it visually still showing evidence of the east/west differences as the east prefabs, less green and international influences (ie. immigrant neighborhoods). Evidence of 'the wall' was pointed out as we drove several times over the brick/stone lines in pavement on the streets where the wall had previously stood. Siegfried said two experiences in his life he will never forget - the day the wall came down and secondly, dinner with seven princes (but that is another story). He was an excellent tour guide, giving background stories to go with the many famous buildings, monuments, etc we visited and answers for my continuous questions. To give a sampling of what we saw that afternoon and evening on my Berlin tour - the Brandenburger Tor (gates), Chancellor's official residence, Reichstasbebaude (seat of parliament), Charlotteburg Palace, Palace Bellevue (the official residence of the president of the Federal Republic - like the US White House), Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church (bombed and left as a war memorial) along with the new octagonal church (a symbol of post war architecture), Triumphal Column, Radio Tower, Air Bridge monument, Check Point Charlie, plus mayor's homes and council chambers in various sectors of the city, concert hall, cultural centre, parks, people, bridges where protestors were martyred...a full day.
Saturday, April 9, 2011
April 4 - SOS Mom's Chicken Soup Please
Woke to pouring rain and my cold having moved into my chest and still fighting chills and fever. What a time to be sick! All I want is the cure all of Mom's special chicken noodle soup...but had to dress instead to head out to pick up juice, water, Vicks type medicine and a cough syrup I can take with my other medications. I finally managed to get that last item at Apothke (pharmacy) with garbled German/English and list of prescriptions in hand.
STAYED IN BED THEREAFTER. Tiefengruben will have to wait. By the way it 's really no fun being sick with only one English channel - CNN British news and sports.
STAYED IN BED THEREAFTER. Tiefengruben will have to wait. By the way it 's really no fun being sick with only one English channel - CNN British news and sports.
April 3 - Good byes and sneezes
Final breakfast buffet onboard and farewells as busses transferred guests to the airport and I hopped a taxi to the train station.
Cruising into Frankfurt had me wondering which route my Grandparents had taken as they left Germany to emigrate to Canada. Having seen thousands of years of history over the past weeks gives me a new appreciation for their roots and courage to emigrate.
I activated my Eurail Pass and enjoyed seeing the city become suburb, then beautiful hilly countryside on the two and a half hour train trip to Erfurt. The hotel was literally right outside the train station so I signed in and went in search of something for my headache, plugged sinus and cough...hard to do when my German dictionary and translator don't have much in the way of medical terms.
I also stopped at the tourist information office to get details on the bus to Tiefengruben (20 km away) however neither young lady working there had ever heard of it (even though it has been designated a historic site as a prime example of a circle village). They could find bus info to Bad Berka which from their net research was 4 km from Tiefengruben but that was as close as they got. I'm regretting now telling Harold and Marianne they didn't have to come down from Achim to show me around Tiefengruben.
Had an early dinner - Jaegerschnitzel with spirrelli. I though it would be a veal or chicken schnitzel with mushroom hunter gravy as per my trusty menu terms in the German dictionary. Instead it was some sort of ham sausage slices breaded like schnitzel and rigatoni noodles in a tomato sauce. Ah the adventures of eating in a foreign language.
Headache and fever so it was off to bed - to sleep, perchance to dream...
Cruising into Frankfurt had me wondering which route my Grandparents had taken as they left Germany to emigrate to Canada. Having seen thousands of years of history over the past weeks gives me a new appreciation for their roots and courage to emigrate.
I activated my Eurail Pass and enjoyed seeing the city become suburb, then beautiful hilly countryside on the two and a half hour train trip to Erfurt. The hotel was literally right outside the train station so I signed in and went in search of something for my headache, plugged sinus and cough...hard to do when my German dictionary and translator don't have much in the way of medical terms.
I also stopped at the tourist information office to get details on the bus to Tiefengruben (20 km away) however neither young lady working there had ever heard of it (even though it has been designated a historic site as a prime example of a circle village). They could find bus info to Bad Berka which from their net research was 4 km from Tiefengruben but that was as close as they got. I'm regretting now telling Harold and Marianne they didn't have to come down from Achim to show me around Tiefengruben.
Had an early dinner - Jaegerschnitzel with spirrelli. I though it would be a veal or chicken schnitzel with mushroom hunter gravy as per my trusty menu terms in the German dictionary. Instead it was some sort of ham sausage slices breaded like schnitzel and rigatoni noodles in a tomato sauce. Ah the adventures of eating in a foreign language.
Headache and fever so it was off to bed - to sleep, perchance to dream...
April 2 ...the end is near
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| I love wandering the streets and coming across funky decorative wrought iron, and sculptural pieces such as the guy who looks like he is holding the building up and hidden art pieces...Frankfurt had its fair share. |
After lunch it was off for a bus city tour, then a guided walking tour (which saw me lose the guide in the market when I stopped for a bathroom break...he was supposed to wait on the other side of the market - or so he said - but seemed to have forgotten that as he faded out on my earphones as I raced through the market). With no one in sight on the other side I just thought 'to hell with it' and did my own thing. I went back slower through the market, stopped for coffee and a great apple-cheese pastry in a tiny shop on the square, and people watched to my heart's content. It was very sunny and hot and the locals were taking advantage of the opportunity to enjoy the outdoors. The walk along the river saw Spring was in the air, cherry blossoms, tree full of magnolia blooms and young lovers groping on the grass (oblivious to the crowds and families picnicing). There were a few times I was tempted to say 'Get a room'.
Once back onboard, I finalized the details and documents for my next river cruise - on the Danube - Passau to Budapest starting April 17 for eight days. The Captain's Farewell Dinner that evening saw everyone at their spiffiest - champagne toast to start and free flowing wine. Dessert was the usual cruise finale - lights out as the staff march in Baked Alaska (though I don't get what the fuss is about Baked Alaska, especially after they have been giving us much better desserts all week).
The evening wrapped up with a three piece group, La Strada (two violins and a guitar) doing a concert in the lounge. They came from Belgium to entertain us with classical pieces and rousing gypsy music. Excellent performance before it was off to finish laundry and to pack for the morning disembarkation.
April 1 - Crusing the Romantic Rhine
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| Nothing like having to pass through the pub in order to get to church...such is the case with the building with the flag in front of it. Not an idea that caught on apparently as it was the only one I saw on my travels. |
It was beautiful to see as we quietly cruised, birds singing, the sun eventually shining, snapping pictures at every turn. Rik, the cruise director, introduced each castle and entertained us with the legends associated with them...from feuding brothers, to a miserable Bishop who hogged all the food and production of the workers while they were starving. He was eaten by mice whose population started at one and doubled each night as a warning for him to change his ways, which when he refused to change resulted in his mousey demise. And there are tales of each town's taxes for river traffic along the way and the torture of those who refused to pay...for example people put hanging in baskets off the castle wall, sitting there as skeletons when they starved to death and serving as a constant reminder to pay up or die.
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| This is one of the "toll" fortresses on the river, where they could see the merchant ships coming and going, take their taxes for their stretch of river and thus keep the castle on the hill and the village below. |
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| Medieval walls of Bacharach - very thick. |
After our day of fresh air (and several glasses of wine) all the passengers were looking forward to the 'Epicurean Adventure' special evening meal with wine matching through each course. It was delightful (not that I am a gourmet or wine tasting expert) and after a new wine with each course (another four or five glasses that I am sure they kept topping up every time you turned your head), I joined a few other tipsy people who opted to make it an early night. I did manage to stay awake long enough to watch/listen to the classical pianist special one hour concert in the lounge...then it was off to la-la land.
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| A famed composers home in Bacharach...where he sat looking out the window, drinking wine and finding his muse to create. |
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| My favorite castle...doesn't look like a princess and prince could appear at any moment? |
March 31...must be Cologne
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| The River Empress - my home on the Rhine |
So rain cape on and umbrella up I headed out on the walking tour of Cologne. Up and down alleys and sidestreets, past an archaelogical dig in the middle of the city, to the Cathedral and Roman-Germanic Museum. The museum is built on the walls of a Roman villa found in 1941 and contains the famous Dionysos mosaic - the floor intact where it was found with the museum built around it. The museum also has a huge collection of artifacts from pre-historic to the middle-ages, including to world's largest collection of Roman glass vessels. There were some really beautiful glass pieces with fine filligree like glass embellishments - incredible! After that overview, we were left on our own to explore.
Photo - archeological dig in Cologne - it seems they keep finding roman ruins whenever they start a new building project in certain areas of the city.
The rain was letting up so I headed over to the Kölner Dom (Cologne Cathedral) - a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the largest cathedral in Germany and took 632 years to complete. In 1248 it was first started then halted due to wars/economics until 1842 when construction resumed until completion in 1880. It features some beautiful detailed stained glass windows and in the cathedral is a golden crypt said to contain the relics and remains of the Magi (Three Wise Men),
The Cathedral also managed to escape unharmed the ravages of WWII. There is a story, urban legend or truth, that in the final days of the war, passing troops tossed seven grenades at the Cathedral and not one exploded...protection from a higher power?
I hopped the little tourist tram back to our docking...actually it's closet stop to the ship just happened to be at the Chocolate Museum (Lindt Chocolates). Just missed the final tour of the day but, with the heavenly scent of chocolate permeating the air, I settled for a half hour in the chocolate shop....Yummy. Looked like 1000's of different flavors of truffles, shapes of chocolate for every occasion. You could just feel the pounds packing onto your hips just breathing the air in there. I practiced extreme control - one small bag of truffles for me, and two host gifts for planned family visits in Germany.
Once back onboard, the Captain annouced we had to leave at 7 pm (about four hours ahead of schedule) due to one of the engines needing repairs. The ship would be operating on the one remaining engine until the repairs were finished (hopefully by the next day). In order to be able to do the Castles cruising in the morning we had to leave right away. Amazingly enough, as were were about to pull the gangway two passengers just made it on and as we were about to pull away the final two remaining passengers got a cable basket lift on board (or so I was told by the two ladies who barely made it on as the gangway was being lifted). At least no one was left wondering where the boat was when they got back to the dock that night. By the way, they did have a Plan B to deal with any passengers left stranded by the early departure but didn't need to put it to work.
March 30...cruising
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| Early morning mists as we pass through a lock while cruising down the river...it is strange to pass by farmlands where all you see are the roofs of the buildings as the land is several feet below the dikes and the water level of the river. |
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| Farber piece of a hanging man made from tacks. |
While half the people on board opted to tour the military museum, I joined the bus tour to the Kröller Müller Museum, which owes its existence to Helene Kroller-Muller. She began collecting paintings after her daughter and her attended an art appreciation course with H.P. Bremmer, who became her personal art advisor. Being a rich woman she collected almost 11,500 art works from 1907 to the 1920's when the economic downturn threatened the loss of her estate and art collection. She sidestepped the economic crunch by donating the 13,000 acre estate-hunting reserve and art to the State on the condition a museum be built there to house the collection.
Her favorite artist was Vincent vanGogh who she believed to be one of the 'great spirits of our modern art'. Her collection includes numerous paintings and about 180 works on paper - one of the world's largest collections of van Gogh (with the exception of the family collection). Viewing the rooms with his works you can see the artist's mental ups and downs as he fought depression and stays in the mental asylum.
Despite the number of his works, they are only a small part of the collection on view. Realism in Courbet, Daubiny and Idealism of Seurat, Cezanne, Picasso, Gris are few other names hanging about. We also got to preview the soon to be opened Hortus/Corpus feature exhibition of Jan Fabre. Some interesting pieces from sexually explicit to downright prickly...for example a man-size model of an astronaut and another of a man hanging covered completely with tacks and nails pointing out...or how about a hooded coat made from bugs?
Another Farber piece covered in bugs...strange but also strangely compelling.
Friday, April 8, 2011
March 29 Amsterdam Keukenhof Gardens
The garden just opened the previous weekend and is only open for 8-10 weeks each year...crocus-daffodils were blooming in the fields and throughout the gardens, but it was too early for the tulips other than in the pavilions. The pavilions are a showcase of the various growers' varieties and are a riot of color and creativity. All kinds of tulips, crocus, lilies, daffodils, etc. along with creative ways to grow and display the flowers.
Dotted throughout the gardens are the bulb sellers kiosks...in October I will expect to receive about 175-200 bulbs in nine plus varieties to dress up my yard for next spring.
Photos: Top - bed of beautiful crocus flowers; right - tulips the size of dinner plates, a show of new floral developments by the growers that may be a few years before commercially available; below the Kuekenhof Gardens windmill and the Tree Hugger sculpture that bring a chuckle to all who see him.
In the late afternoon we headed via the freeway and along picturesque rural roads out to Volendam on what used to be the Zuider Zeas, and inlet ot the North Sea, but with land reclamation along a 19 mile dam/causewaz it is now a freshwater lake called IJselmeer. Volendam went from a quaint fishing village and favorite of many landscape artists to the country's second largest tourist destination. It is very quaint and picturesque but after the long hours wandering the gardens I only had enought energy and time for a quick stroll around the harbour area.
Photo: Full size bronze figure of a woman in traditional costume looking out to sea, waiting for the fishing boats to return to Volendam; below the bird mimics the statues waiting, looking out to sea stance.
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